PH shift or waterlogged

[InsaneMembrane]

Here’s water after rains:
pH 7.5
EC: 0,42
TDS: 210ppm
general hardness: 107ppm
carbonate hardness: 142ppm

water before rains:
pH: 7.5
EC: 0,3
TDS: 140ppm
General hardness: 144ppm
Carbonate hardness: 124ppm

 

[f-e]

Interesting report. A 50% gain in 'crap' after it rains. Not explained by the drop in general hardness, or ~15% gain in carbonates. The pair of which are an overall lowering of hardness.

If something is night and day different, it's hiding in the TDS gain.

 

[InsaneMembrane]

I have sent it to the lab for a complete analysis, will see exactly whats going on. I think my water might be high in bicarbonates. And bicarbonates “steal” available calcium and make calcium carbonate and a lack of available Ca can also mean a lack of P.

 

[f-e]

Are you doing a fish thing, or irrigation suitability test?

 

[InsaneMembrane]

Sent it to an agronomy lab yeah

 

[Growenhaft]

it will very likely be the silicates ... probably the esters of silicic acid.

Have you also sent in your tap water for analysis?

Don't let the values ​​drive you too crazy if they are not in the optimum ... remember you have 20l of soil ... this is a world of its own ... the area in which your plant can cope well is therefore very wide .. .that is not a ride on a knife edge where small deviations have big consequences ... with 20l soil your plant will find many possibilities to be able to replace deficiency situations.

With large pots it is better to look at the vitality of the plants alone. You can see this by the way the plant aligns its leaves to the light ... the more leaf area it provides directly to the light, the better it is. A leaf placed steeply upwards gives just as little leaf surface to light as a hanging leaf.

one of the most important indicators of vitality is the distance between the individual fingers ... the more even the better. irregularities indicate problems.

if the women become lighter with their leaves in a vital position, it is better to wait for the reaction of the plant in large pots. in the outdoor area you can often see that after a very heavy rain ... or even a very strong heat ... at the moment the plants are getting lighter ... it is often due to a temporary poor availability, or a momentary additional demand ... triggered by environmental influences.

that means the availability will usually change again by itself ... and you can trust that plants, which are of course restricted to their location, have many possibilities to tidy up and adapt their habitat.

this is something different with small pots ... an adjustment of the values ​​will be the more successful way.

But if you deal with 20l of soil and a momentary poor availability, act as if there is a real deficiency and fertilize these nutrients ... this will be the wrong way with a healthy, strong soil. it often disturbs the conditions in the further course of flowering ... often weeks later.

 

[InsaneMembrane]

I have stated a couple of times Im using spring water straight from the source, no well, water comes straight from the source to my house.

 

[InsaneMembrane]

Alright I got the lab report.

pH 7.5
EC 0,25
TDS 160ppm
Ca 33ppm
Mg 6ppm
K 2ppm
Na 7ppm
nitrates 3ppm
Zn 0,07ppm
Cu ND
B ND
Fe ND
Mn ND
bicarbonates 120ppm

According to these numbers the water is fucked, low Ca, low Mg, low K, high bicarbonates