Plants with PM and should you just kill them

[Red October]

I have one destroyer plant that keeps getting pm, our humidity is at most 70% and I don't see why she would keep getting reinfected. These are on my outdoor plants and it looks like we're going to have a reasonably wet end of summer season so I'm seriously wondering if I should just chop her down as my setup has all the plants very close together and Im worried she'll get bud rot if she's this sensitive to light rain lhfalaready before putting in much bud mass.

She looks like she'll produce a lot but I can tell it's going to be one of the short flowering phenos and probably won't have a super strong effect if she is the same as her sister pheno I got from the pack.

 

[BadRabbit]

I'd say if it's covered with it, pitch it. If it has "some", spray it with Green Cure and save it if possible.

 

[Lyfespan]

water with RAW Aminos, get the Brix back inline in the plant and cure the issue. no big deal

 

[Red October]

I'd say if it's covered with it, pitch it. If it has "some", spray it with Green Cure and save it if possible.

I've tried a few things already and it cured the one plant next to it but this specific one keeps getting light pm on its leaves, I think I'm more worried about her being an easy target of bud rot as she can't handle the pm at this point already.

 

[Creeperpark]

I would look at the growing conditions and find the cause!!!! Keep the air moving around the mold areas, and allow the plant roots in the soil to live more on the dry side. Instead of saturation, water using less, and more time between watering's.

 

[BadRabbit]

I've tried a few things already and it cured the one plant next to it but this specific one keeps getting light pm on its leaves, I think I'm more worried about her being an easy target of bud rot as she can't handle the pm at this point already.

Green Cure won't cure it, just kills off the current outbreak and the PM can reappear within a few weeks. The Green Cure is safe/organic even on flowering plants so reusing it is not a problem. You can also dilute milk (google up the ratios) and do alternate sprays with that. (I've never done the milk, but it's a recommended treatment from many authoritative sources).

Some plants are more PM susceptible than others ... if they're desirable plants, you may not mind spraying them a few times during a grow, otherwise it's certainly not a good trait.

And BTW, bud rot is actually a different pathogen from PM.

Agree with Creeperpark on conditions - lower humidity and air movement helps with both issues. Won't necessarily eliminate totally, but reduces the problem.

 

[CoconutFarmer]

If you keep the temps always over 21°C PM should not appear.

0.5 % wetable micronized sulphur helps as well to kill the PM spores.

Temps over a specific high temp at 50-65°C, dont figured out yet the exact temp kills PM as well, of course just as room sanitation and not with the plants, since 43-47°C is the plant limit

 

[CoconutFarmer]

Of course outdoor not possible.
High ph in foliar helps as well

 

[Red October]

Thanks guys and apologies for the non responses from me, was dealing with a ball of life shit going on. The pm did spread but the plants are coping OK with me spraying them every couple of weeks, the Hawaiian snow was the hardest hit out of them but at the same time I'm quite happy I didn't chop the destroyer plant that started all of this as she's going to be a good yielder!!

 

[f-e]

Southern AG sell a decent version of hydroguard that's showing as much as 95% yield increases by saving plants. Hydroguard isn't strong enough even undiluted, but the ingredient is a well known fungicide approved in even Cali for cannabis.

On wet years, My bigger budded plants don't make it. I don't expect them to. I have well branched plants with lots of smaller buds in, just to cover these years

 

[Eleutherios]

I brought a strain of pm back from a dispensary ( Cherry City Compassion in Salem, OR) It eventually killed the host plant and not before infecting others. It just wouldn't go away. Eventually I found that a solution comprising 4 tbsp fresh aloe gel, 3-5 heads of garlic, and two tbsp neem extract diluted into a gallon of water, applied 1-2x a week to beat it back into submission. Since using a 50ppm chitosan in 1%vinegar solution every other week as a foliar spray, it has disappeared. This latter spray is backed up by research into other crops. You can get the powder off of Ebay. The other spray I found to be more effective than any one of it's components or any 2 out of the 3 without the 3rd. Really drench the plants and make sure that you are picking off infected leaves 1st, careful to not spread it via touching the healthy portions. Filtering the blended plant portions well is important to not clogging your sprayer (at the risk of stating the obvious.) Also, make sure to look around and see if you can identify other types of plants, in it's general vicinity, that may be acting as host plants. Around here, wild roses tend to be a culprit. Remove diseased plants if possible and treat the rest with whatever fungicide(s) you go with.

 

[buzzmobile]

Southern AG sell a decent version of hydroguard that's showing as much as 95% yield increases by saving plants. Hydroguard isn't strong enough even undiluted, but the ingredient is a well known fungicide approved in even Cali for cannabis.

Sells for under $9/pint.

 

[Sunshineinabag]

Those damn prayjng mantis...always in the know...putting yheir fjngers in dere

 

[buzzmobile]

Those damn prayjng mantis...always in the know...putting yheir fjngers in dere

Eye wool prey for ewe and eat your legos later.
Got fungi?

Ewe tok funy two.

 

[Sunshineinabag]

I wanted p envy......cause ya know