What's new
  • Please note members who been with us for more than 10 years have been upgraded to "Veteran" status and will receive exclusive benefits. If you wish to find out more about this or support IcMag and get same benefits, check this thread here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

kalopatchkid

Well-known member
Veteran
BT is useful for fungus gnats but I don’t think it will do anything for Root Aphids.

There is another product Similar to botanigard but with a different strain of beauveria bassiana called Bioceres Wp. Similar in price to botanigard but approved for use on cannabis in Canada.

I had root aphids pop up at the beginning of flower last month in my grow shed. Did a botanigard drench, cleaned my floor Really well, then sprayed the floor with Bifen to control any crawlers. Then I put a tangle foot barrier on anything touching the ground including my drip lines. A week later I did a pretty good top dress of beneficial nematodes and watered it in.

I go out every morning and crawl under my trellis and have not seen any live ones in a few weeks and I’m on day 37 with plants that still looking healthy.

I did use Imid on some vegging plants that I keep in a separate area and those have still been root aphid free as well.
 

vidura

New member
Adults may or may not have wings. Most of the aphid species also occur in winged forms, especially when populations are high or during spring and fall. Aphids are mostly found on plants in large numbers since they are capable of rapid population increases.
https://lifeandagri.com/aphids/
 

Firecityseeds

Active member
I was battling these for 3 consecutive grows. I thought it was mag deficiency and was chasing deficiencies until i used a magnifier. Tried 30 min soak of safers , eclipses method, kontos , imid. All knocked them back considerably but none gave 100% kills.

Decided to go cheap. Bought mosquito dunks. 6 per 5 gallon bucket of water. Came back the next day expecting nothing but was pleasantly surprised by new growth. I keep a routine now. One week mosquito dunks , next week pfr 97 , next week beuvaria, next week nematodes. So far so goood. The acephate, kontos , safrers were all really rough on the girls as well . Has anyone tried flagship? Its rated for root aphids.
 
Alright guys, I have a major pest problems. At first I thought I had a nutrient deficiency and went down the treatment list. A few weeks later pests have infested my grow (nut deficiency symptoms have mostly subsided, though) but I'm waiting to flip to flower until I can get it under control. They are winged, but I've also spotted them around the edge of the pot and the bottom of the pot by the drainage holes. I've been treating with Neem oil fairly aggressively until I came across this thread. All of my problems/symptoms point to root aphids.

There weren't winged versions until recently and they've made there way 2-3 rooms down and infested a houseplant collection (just as winged root aphids do). One generation of the flying stage at least died 5-7 days ago, and today there is a new generation of these flying fuckers.

I read the first 30 pages of the thread and the last few. There seem to be many complex/overlapping treatment approaches, but before I drop $100+ on this fuckers I'm hoping for help with a positive ID.

(I also saw the first post suggests it's quite possible (likely even) that I have both... if these aren't flying aphids how should I proceed seeking to further diagnose so I can properly treat prior to flower?)

I'm hoping they are fungus gnats or something else but after looking at some pictures I can't really tell. What do you think? Please tell me I don't have these monsters.
 

Attachments

  • photo2050146.png
    photo2050146.png
    590.5 KB · Views: 105
  • photo2050147.png
    photo2050147.png
    468.1 KB · Views: 96

Cobrab19

New member
So I too have a dreaded RA infestation on my moms that is leading to them being on my clones. I was suggested to use pure crop1 as a root drench. What other things should I add to the soil? Will obviously be cleaning. Also what is the best way to ensure my clones don’t have them? Can I dip the cubes in h2o2? Or is there a better dip for clones that will kill on contact?
 

Desert Dan

Well-known member
Veteran
Honestly bro… Been fighting them for over a year! Even shut down for 3 months with pyrethrum bombs in between. Just when you think they are gone, they come back.

I’m starting to believe that you cannot defeat them, but merely find some sort of symbiosis. It is not that fun, but you can pull crops if you rotate everything mentioned in this thread. Only use pyrethrin, beneficials, and botaniguard in flower. It gets tiresome though.

-DD
 

BudToaster

Well-known member
Veteran
whenever i see wildlife in the soil, i use the triple threat nematodes from arbico organics (with "-" between) - practically sterilizes the soil - in a good way.
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
My buddy that owns a shop was suggesting pure crop 1 root drench. What are your guys thoughts on that for root aphids

Maybe give biosafes azaguard a try. A fellow grower friend had success with it as a root drench. Its expensive but good quality and a fair price for the concentration that it is. Actually cheaper vs concentration compared to other name brands.
 

Cobrab19

New member
So I think I’m going to first hit every plant with 75ml/gal of h202 in hopes of killing everything good abs bad. Then im thinking of coming in with the BB and Other beneficial like plus c mykos and slf 100 in hopes of keeping them at bay basically. Will update my results ASAP
 

Cobrab19

New member
Had a couple questions regarding the BB if someone could kindly answer.
1. I was under the impression I was soil drenching with BB, is that possible? As I was reading 24 hours in water wasn’t good. should I foliar as well?
2. It’s recommending Gloves respirator googled etc
Is all that necessary?
3. If I do soil drench and mix a bunch their suggesting to mix it in a air tight container of some sort. Is that necessary and any ideas how I could mix a bunch without creating air?
 

imiubu

Well-known member
H2O2 is a powerful and useful tool to wipe out those pesky root aphids and fungus gnats... use w/ care.
I personally would water in at a 50/50 solution til good run off. The only by products are dead larvae,
H2O and O.
Remove run off from saucer or w/ e, just make sure the pots do not sit in that solution.
Flush well and remove that water from saucers.
Scratch in some good compost w/ some organic food.
Beneficial's will repopulate.
Recently used peroxide to kill off an especially tenacious infestation of gnats as a last resort,
as the BTI just was not handling the shear amount of those critters.
Sigh, the chances we take w/ pre made soils :)

Best.
 

Cobrab19

New member
So I have one more question guys. How can I implement BB in a ebb and flow hydro system? Just spray the plants themselves? I’m hoping to treat the net pots somehow, I’m under the impression the spores die in water after 24 hours.
 

buzzmobile

Well-known member
Veteran
The BB spores will die in water and sunlight exposure.

As a generalist feeder, B. bassiana controls all life stages of leaf-feeding insects including common pests such as aphids, thrips, whiteflies, mealybugs, caterpillars and beetles. Immature stages tend to be more susceptible than adults. Spray formulations can be applied in greenhouse or field settings, and on ornamental or edible crops. Efficacy depends on climatic conditions; the greatest control occurs within 68-86 F and above 60 percent relative humidity. In greenhouses, control may be reached in three to seven days, but it is not uncommon for control to take seven to 10 days in field settings. Repeat applications are recommended every five to seven days until a desired level of control is reached.

A commercial suspension of B. bassiana spores has a shelf life of one year when stored at room temperature and longer when stored in the refrigerator. It should not be stored below 0 F or above 85 F.Spray mixes should be applied as soon as possible after mixing because spores cannot survive in water for more than 24 hours and are susceptible to degradation from UV light. Spores remain viable for a longer time when applied to leaf undersides or in the evening due to reduced sunlight exposure.

https://www.lsuagcenter.com/profiles/lbenedict/articles/page1520876411332
 
Top