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Get Rid of Fungus Gnats For Good Using Mosquito Dunks

mdgg4

Active member
i have a 5 gallon bucket of mosquito bits, they will not completely erradicate gnats, i throw that shit in the pots by the handfull, gnats just dance on top of it. mosquito bits are bti. if you must use bti, for better results run alongside hypoapsis miles, but alone, they multiply too fast. bottom line contain them, cover your pots so they can be completely removed when time comes. if not you will always have a presence of gnats in your garden, you know, that gnat flying around in ya face every now and then.

PEACE!
 

shawkmon

Pleasantly dissociated
Veteran
i had gnats so bad a month ago, got dunks, let 5 gallon bucket of water sit out 24 hours, i crumble a half a dunk in water,add my calmag , i add my nutes , my stump tea ,bit of Rawsilica, might even take a piss in the bucket , let it sit out anouther day , ph it , water plants with it , i do it every watering , i i have zero gnats now ! and healthiest robust plants i ever had

THANKS SKEETER DUNK GUY , GREAT INFO
 

hellfire

Active member
These things tend to work best after brewing for 2-3 days. When the color of the water gets that milky kind of tinge to it..yeah its on.
 

MintyMick

Member
I've been fighting these bastards for two years. Mosquito dunks, pesticide (neem, knock down, azamax), diatomaceous earth, pesticide root soaks. Used a layer of two inch sand on the top of my soil. Nothing works for long.

I've been using happy frog or ocean forest to supplement my soil mix. I'm sure they hitch a ride in to my grow on those. Shoot me.

Hopefully mine won't mutate and just sit around my house all day eating my food and complaining.
 

mdgg4

Active member
Like I said, cover ya pots. If you think they hitch ride in soil, bake it. I would probably bake at around 150°-175°, would make sure soil reaches that temp for about 10 min should kill everything in your soil. Bennies can always be added back, then cover them bitches. Peeps preaching about bti being the end all, its not. This is not my first time fighting gnats, all that shit mentioned ive tried. NOTHING will erradicate them fully, you will ALWAYS have a flier or two hovering around. Thats why people who use those products, me included, never seem to completely wipe them out so have to continue to use said products and hope they dont get bad again. FUCK THAT, I would want them gone, finished, kaput, annihalated! But seeing nothing on the market in and in itself will completely wipe them out, and keep them from coming back.
Gonna say once again, sterilize new soil, cover(mesh bubblebags recommended,$20/8bag,use them all) boom gnats gone. Stop playing with these bastards, cant you guys see they are starting to build resistance to most things people throw at them. You got to get physical, and remove them from your garden. If you cant remove and stuck on bti, please atleast run alongside hypoapsis miles, the physical part if ya know what i mean. Something that physically searches them out day and night, hunters. Also they will reproduce giving you a army of hunters constantly searching. But bti alone, nah, tried it, dont work dont care what anyone on this site says. Bti is only toxic if they eat it, adults dont eat, just fuck and multiply. Hypoapsis miles wont discriminate, eating adults and babies and eggs. But will leave you guys to the bti, hope it helps.

PEACE
 

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Muleskinner

Active member
Veteran
I get 100% elimination after several treatments of Gnatrol. Typically by 2-3 weeks into flower I do not have to use it again.

sure, if it's summer outside you'll see a gnat or two flying around. no big deal. Only chemie pesticide grows are completely free of bugs. I see springtails and pot worms all the time in my soil mix. I used to bake the soil but it makes your oven smell for weeks afterward and kills the beneficial microbial life.
 

Smoggy

Member
Almost a month later and still around, but decreasing quick. My mosquitoi zapper leaves a pile of them below after every lights-out! Remaining Larvae getting their Gnatrol grub granules. These things are everywhere nowdays - surprisingly, ive see em @ my fav. Korean restaurant coupler times.
As long as lit windows open, your @ risk them entering- same with white flys, thrips, aphids..
The bag-em method isn't practical for lrg #'$ of containers, but should work: suggest paint strainer bags, cheaper and come in different sizes.
That expanded soda bottles glass product "Nix is water proof and for sure shreds em as top dressing- drainage holes still open though.
My pots drainage slots i screen w/ thin aquarium filter fabric to keep hydroton in.
But yea, i suspect we've evolved a super strain!
 

Dog Star

Active member
Veteran
Cinnamon is a atomic bomb for gnat larvae,never ever i use Bti as he could not kill them totaly as i use fabric pots and haved some gnat larves that was like ninjas,hidding in a fabric pot while i watering and always bastards survived Bti.

After i gived them cinnamon chalenge they dissapeared like they never was made me problems... zero gnats and gnat larvaes
 

troutman

Seed Whore
Last year I tried something else for fungus gnats. Good old mosquito coils.

I tried one in my tent and the fungus gnats were not too happy. :biggrin:

Actually, I think they'll work for any flies bothering you. :tiphat:

I just placed it on the ground on a fireproof dish and let the smoke invade
the undergrowth of the plants for 20 minutes. I think a few smokeouts will
tell the bugs to get lost eventually.

You can get them on ebay,amazon, and places that sell camping supplies..

I don't use them all the time. Maybe once every 2 weeks as a preventative medicine.

mosquito-coil.jpg


51FaNbCrF-L._SY355_.jpg
 

DocTim420

The Doctor is OUT and has moved on...
My post from a different thread--
As we all know, Bacillus thuringiensis serotype israelensis (BTi) is effective natural pesticide to control Fungus Gnats. So how do we measure BTi? Which product is the best "deal" for buying BTi?

Well, that question requires a little back of the envelope math before one can actually compare different BTi products. You see, BTi is measured in International Toxic Units (ITU) at various concentrations ranging between 100 to 7,000 ITU/mg. The "Active Ingredient Percentage" on the label is just part of the story...gotta include the amount of ITU/mg.

An 8% "active ingredient" product formulated with 1200 ITU/mg has 96 ITU (1200 x 0.08) for each milligram of product.

A 3% "active ingredient" product formulated with 7000 ITU/mg has 210 ITU (7000 x 0.03) for each milligram of product.

Hmmm, that means the 3% products has nearly twice the amount of ITU than the 8% product. WTF?

Also, application methods are different. Some products are RTU (ready to use) for both soil and water applications, others like Vectobac require the preparation of fermentation slurry to activate the BTi, and some are only water soluble (not to be mixed directly with the grow medium).

Since not all BTi products are "equal", I have prepared a comparison of the "usual suspects" and correlated everything to cents per million ITU.

picture.php


Gnatrol is the most affordable, but can only be used in a liquid suspension form--you can not add the powder directly to the grow medium.

Bits is the 2nd most affordable and can be added to both water and the directly to the potting soil. When added to the water, BTi is instantly activated...but when mixed with potting soil, BTi is gradually activated (time release of sorts) for about 21 days. Bits are basically corn cob bits sprayed with BTi.

Dunks are slow acting (gradual release as the "donut" dissolves) and can be added to the potting soil directly--but must be crumbled to a powder like consistency (PIA). Dunks are pressed donuts made of gypsum and cork bits sprayed with BTi.

I have no experience with Vectobac products but a special fermentation slurry must be prepared before the BTi is activated (an additional step that most BTi products do not require).

Microbelift BMC is already in liquid form and like Gnatrol, it must be diluted in water before use...and from my analysis, is not a bargain.

I previously used both Gnatrol and Dunks, but for the past few years I exclusively use Bits for my source of BTi ($120 for 5 gallon bucket). I mix Bits directly to my water (30 ml/20 gallon rez), mix Bits directly in the potting soil (5 ml/5 gallon container) and mix Bits with my top dressing fertility (7.5 ml/5 gallon container).

One product for all. Admittedly, I could use Dunks form my water rez, but since that rez is used and refilled daily, I prefer the faster acting Bits over the slow release Dunks.

So there you have it. If there are other BTi products you want included in my analysis, please let me know and I will be more than happy to add them.
 
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Smoggy

Member
Confirmed Kill

Confirmed Kill

So much debate, on this...
& wow- Times fly's!!
I never reported final results on this easy non-toxic multi-pronged treatment - It worked 100%.
I unplugged mosquito light long ago.
In Veg and flwr rooms, where plants always present, there's not been 1 fungus gnats seen since.
Although, haven't brought in new infested plants/medium; im confident the inoculation with bti & predator nematodes is essential Early prevention to avoid playing catch-up & bugs in you buds.
It took about 2 months to get at all em: New eggs, larvae, & humping flyers...

Forget about burning synthetic pesticide vapors in your garden.
Bummed me out - they burned those coils like incense @ gym in Saigon, while im working out on vacation!
 

Smoggy

Member
Addendum:
I was paranoid reading here so much Horrors on Root Aphids, that after seeing some Aphid looking bug in my original pots, I spent meticulous hours trying to catch some samples. Before i could take em to Ag. Commissioner for ID, i came across em as "Hypoapsis Miles" pic - Don't know where they originally came from, but fortunately they manage to get in everything- find em even in new clone plugs. They'd apparently been part of team keeping my old collection fungus-gnat free. Theyre hopefully surviving, dieting on perpetual spring-tails now.
 
B

Buddhafamily456

Honestly I struggled with fungus gnats for a long time. My sticky traps I’d poke into the soil would be covered with them. I’ve tried gnatnix and tons of other ways to try to get rid of them. I recently began to start growing completely organic, no bottles nutrients at all. And I swear to you all my gnats are gone. I didn’t change anything else except that and they’re gone. I know beneficial bacteria’s can out compete many bad things in your soil or coat pests and help irradicate them and I think this is what happened. So maybe in me seeing this result can help someone else out
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Overwater or otherwise create conditions to their favour and they'll return.
 

Muleskinner

Active member
Veteran
Sorry....it's just luck! I use organic soil with only dry nutes and the fungus gnats LOVE it. They will always love rich organic soil mediums, the only things that stop them are Bti (Gnatrol or mosquito dunks) and/or beneficial nematodes.

You might occasionally get a batch of soil or compost that doesn't have them, but if it's warm outside and they can get into the bags or containers they will quickly move in & multiply.
 
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biobizz

Member
Cinnamon is a atomic bomb for gnat larvae,never ever i use Bti as he could not kill them totaly as i use fabric pots and haved some gnat larves that was like ninjas,hidding in a fabric pot while i watering and always bastards survived Bti.

After i gived them cinnamon chalenge they dissapeared like they never was made me problems... zero gnats and gnat larvaes

as the question how to use was never answered.. i am chriouse.. anyone else knows more about cinnamon the ultimate gnats killer?
 

biobizz

Member
i bought mosquito dunks. is one dunk enough for 130gallon?

also ordered sone chinese mosquito smoke bombs muhahaha
 
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