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A perfect cure every time
- Thread starter simon
- Start date
Bumping an oldie but a goodie of a post.
Bump.
Vandenberg
Bump.
Vandenberg
Heh, I made the mistake of stopping by another forum first, where I was told that Ed Rosenthal invented this methodology. No, really. I went there to help neubs, but it's not comforting to be confronted with this kind of disrespect. Logged out immediately and decided to come home.
Simon
Welcome back! 
So I have been following this technique, like the holy bible, and for many years have gotten pretty terrible results. Did it all guys- got the 2L JARS, screw on lids, 5G buckets w Gamma lids, 20 humidity meters form 3 dif brands.Have taken down hundreds of plants over the years, and hit and miss, mostly a tonne of work and still miss.
No smell, harsh smoke. Recently ruined an entire lbs of gorilla bubble bx2, so don't tell me its the genetics! 1 week dry in 60%RH / 65F ROOM, then into jars Where it hits 65-70 RH and I leave open overnight. Finally after a few days of this it settles in at 60-65RH - THE SWEET SPOT RIGHT GUYS? yeah, no smell, after weeks of "curing" still no smell smokes like crap lost all potency. If I leave it out to dry to 55% RH the smell actually comes back. Oh and I did 24 hour darkness before chop, removed fan leaves only, cut at stem, hung whole plant to dry, and did dry trim. Oh and I stopped feeding at day 42, 3 weeks of water only, and my soil is like 20% EWC, I even had like 10 worms in each 3G pot at harvest - so don't tell me flush, or too much synth nutes etc LOL
NEXT RUN, Im ignoring this whole thread, and drying in 45% RH ROOM, with fan blowing directly on them, and Once every single damn stem is bone snapping dry af, I then put in jar. MY GOAL? 50%RH, that's right, NO "CURE". Cause you know what, it can't be worse than what I have been churning out.
Sorry, just venting really, I should have come back sooner, but only after ruining this last crop of gorilla bubble have I realized that playing with RH is like playing with FIRE. It can ruin your crop overnight, even though you see no mold. Not WORTH
No smell, harsh smoke. Recently ruined an entire lbs of gorilla bubble bx2, so don't tell me its the genetics! 1 week dry in 60%RH / 65F ROOM, then into jars Where it hits 65-70 RH and I leave open overnight. Finally after a few days of this it settles in at 60-65RH - THE SWEET SPOT RIGHT GUYS? yeah, no smell, after weeks of "curing" still no smell smokes like crap lost all potency. If I leave it out to dry to 55% RH the smell actually comes back. Oh and I did 24 hour darkness before chop, removed fan leaves only, cut at stem, hung whole plant to dry, and did dry trim. Oh and I stopped feeding at day 42, 3 weeks of water only, and my soil is like 20% EWC, I even had like 10 worms in each 3G pot at harvest - so don't tell me flush, or too much synth nutes etc LOL
NEXT RUN, Im ignoring this whole thread, and drying in 45% RH ROOM, with fan blowing directly on them, and Once every single damn stem is bone snapping dry af, I then put in jar. MY GOAL? 50%RH, that's right, NO "CURE". Cause you know what, it can't be worse than what I have been churning out.
Sorry, just venting really, I should have come back sooner, but only after ruining this last crop of gorilla bubble have I realized that playing with RH is like playing with FIRE. It can ruin your crop overnight, even though you see no mold. Not WORTH
Last edited:
Drewsif
Member
Check the apocrypha, some one forgot to boil their roots!
One week is very quick at that climate. If your fan leaves and your flowers dry at the same rate, their chemical composition is probably similar.
The outsides were pretty bone dry (so I wanted to get in jars quick), stems were not snapping yet, but people always said, if you wait till stems snap, it is too late for perfect cure possibilities. Iv had better results with small branches that fell on the ground and I found a month later!
Also I removed fan leaves, a few days before chop, only leaves that have some trichomes on them remained intact on the plant.
Why would you dry so quickly? I’ve never seen anything close to dry in a weeks time.. You have to give the plants long enough to sweat interior moisture out... That gives the Chlorophyll time to break down that chlorophyll has a whole lot to do with the grassy hay smell and you can’t force that out in a week!! It takes time to finish plants off.. How long do you flush with straight RO? In a proper flush every fan leaf should be yellow as can be.. This also starts the breakdown of chlorophyll because the plants consume it as they die on the vine as it were.. I flush at least 14 days and as long as 21 days... as for dry times 3 weeks is about what it takes me in a temp and humidity controlled room.. I have a big ass humidifier in the space with Ac and Dehumidifier I take the overall humidity in the space from 100% down in 10% Increments room temps 70 degrees... I put the plants in the room and allow the room to get settled in about 12 hours with everything off to start the sweating process.. then I let the ac, Dehumidifier and Humidifier work to maintain the set points... that grassy smell doesn’t exist past my drying room... when you can open a small container at the beach and people 30 feet away look and make comments it’s something.. that process starts in the flower room with a proper flush
Only thing I can see is the quick drying... in your drying room set the rh at 85% 70 degrees let the plants sit here one week... drop rh to75 temps at 70 let it sit here for one week drop to 65% rh let it sit here one week some of the stems may crack some won’t are you in soil or hydro? Do you taper off your feeds last few weeks of flower... plants should be feeding on the leaves at this point... what color are the sugar leaves before you start to flush... and what color are they after... soil may or may not flush it depends... I’ve mastered this process and have never had an issue with smell the smoke is always the best around but I run coco DTW... Here is another question that will answer a lot of questions... what color ash will this bud throw after it’s burned is the ash isn’t nearly white and almost light as air your plants have too many salts and nutrients somehow
I never try and dry in glass, very poor results I found. I did store small amounts in glass, that worked fine after the cure. I like a nitrogen purge for glass or sealable freezer bags. I used to use vacuum in glass but it will vaporize terpenes so I stopped 40 years ago.
I dry for about 2 weeks in the dark, then cure in big cardboard boxes stacked in a room around 18-20C with 50-60 % humidity for a month, my goal is quality, not to dry quickly, that is just not the best for quality.
I do not dry small amounts that would fit in a jar anyway. I dry around 100-1000KG at a time and leave branches whole from 12 foot tall plants, my dry plants are never to dry and I do not cure branches until they will snap when bent. I normally cure just the flowers, not on big stems. I find that my cured Cannabis flowers are much smoother and less green tasting than a faster dry/cure of the same flowers. I have done this for almost 50 years, I do it by feel, not any schedule, experience is what I use, there is no short-cut. Different varieties different size branches all make a difference. I like to preserve terpenes, but I also want to dry and cure first as I prefer the taste and smoke. Drying and curing also gives dry sift resin that can be easily sifted, no cure and some varieties the resin will smear and yield much less than the same bud cured.
I have seen every method from rooftop sun dried to no dry for ROSIN, I like my method best for Quality.
Have used big drive in professional built drying/curing rooms with adjustable temps, humidity, air flow. Not cheap to have built correctly with first rate materials but they worked very well. More like a lab or food preparation facility quality.
-SamS
I dry for about 2 weeks in the dark, then cure in big cardboard boxes stacked in a room around 18-20C with 50-60 % humidity for a month, my goal is quality, not to dry quickly, that is just not the best for quality.
I do not dry small amounts that would fit in a jar anyway. I dry around 100-1000KG at a time and leave branches whole from 12 foot tall plants, my dry plants are never to dry and I do not cure branches until they will snap when bent. I normally cure just the flowers, not on big stems. I find that my cured Cannabis flowers are much smoother and less green tasting than a faster dry/cure of the same flowers. I have done this for almost 50 years, I do it by feel, not any schedule, experience is what I use, there is no short-cut. Different varieties different size branches all make a difference. I like to preserve terpenes, but I also want to dry and cure first as I prefer the taste and smoke. Drying and curing also gives dry sift resin that can be easily sifted, no cure and some varieties the resin will smear and yield much less than the same bud cured.
I have seen every method from rooftop sun dried to no dry for ROSIN, I like my method best for Quality.
Have used big drive in professional built drying/curing rooms with adjustable temps, humidity, air flow. Not cheap to have built correctly with first rate materials but they worked very well. More like a lab or food preparation facility quality.
-SamS
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TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Dry for 15-20 days and cure for 20. Controlled environments are key. Once they're in the cure space, the flower doesn't get moved around at all. The cure is automated so no flipping or fluffing allowed. lol. Set the timer and let it be.
Long and slow is the ticket.
Traditional mason jars work great but I hate them because I have big hands. The "wide mouth" mason jar lids are too small and you have a hard time getting the product out. The 1/4lb containers have a 4" opening so your hand actually fits inside comfortably.
Long and slow is the ticket.
Traditional mason jars work great but I hate them because I have big hands. The "wide mouth" mason jar lids are too small and you have a hard time getting the product out. The 1/4lb containers have a 4" opening so your hand actually fits inside comfortably.
So you start with 100% RH and go down by 10% RH increments, so over a 3 week period, what does that look like?
I thought that maybe the RH hitting 65% caused mildew to take over. Kind of like when you hang laundry in a musky basement, it doesn't have that fresh smell, just that musky forgot in the dryer smell. I figured if it happens to a clothes, than why not the plant. So on the next harvest I was going to watch that the RH does not go over 50%!!! Even if that goes against everything that is stated in this thread.
I have had stuff dry quicker usually 4-5 days and turn out better. I thought I would have improved results with 7 day dry. But it was worse. Way worse. Probably close to quitting growing after this failure, after so many runs, that all that hard work can be snatched from me in a few days.
Again Im not trying to get the best cure in the world,
I would like my stuff to be as good as the shit you can buy in stores, and not worse. Recreational growers don't even cure, and do a 7 day dry and none of it ever was like this.
I think the necessity of flushing and the whole ash thing has been disproven by now. Having said that, I fed water for 3 weeks. I did an EWC ammendmend top dress on day 40, so my plants don't fade completely yellow. But its organic so that shouldn't cause problems
I have a closet in this room, on the next harvest I will put half into the closet and it will hit 80F if I close the door. Will this be good because Im getting high RH, but there wont be air circulating. Me sealing the drying area off in some way is the only way to increase RH and lower airflow. Is that going to be ok? there will be some air exchange when I open the doors etc. I won't get a humidifier in this house, I get condensation on my windows, and it will go into flower room, which is already at 60+RH. It is -20C outside often here right now in winter.
