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Help me DIY a Tumbler

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  • Patmando22
    replied
    When i prep the buds for hash i just cut the fans leaves off and shuck the buds into dime to nickel sized chuncks into freezer bags and put in the freezer. I do this over a harvest more trim bin and collect the live heads after. They are fire. Super greasy and super loud in smell!

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  • Patmando22
    replied
    Fresh frozen whole plant for bubble hash.
    Or not letting the plant dry just chopping down and freezing

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by Patmando22 View Post
    Thats some good advice but dont steer away from trying a little live sift every once in awhile. When i process for ffwp hash and get the chance to do it in a very cold environment the heads collected in my 150u trim bin are very nice
    ffwp?

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  • Patmando22
    replied
    Thats some good advice but dont steer away from trying a little live sift every once in awhile. When i process for ffwp hash and get the chance to do it in a very cold environment the heads collected in my 150u trim bin are very nice

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    The best tip for producing dry sift efficiently is to use plant material that has been stored and aged correctly (unmauled during growth, harvest, drying and stored cool, dark, dry) for months. Plant material might dry out in a week or two, but the resin on that dry material will still be gooey and unsuitable for sifting and re-sifting until much later. After several months, the trichomes (resin heads) will dry out, slightly shrink in size and become harder and less gooey-er and less prone to rupturing and smearing..and be easier to separate from the chaff resulting in greater yield and higher purity.

    Always use magnification to monitor your progress during all stages of sifting. Check out the starting material, before, during and after sifting, check out what is passing through the meshes and what is staying above the meshes etc etc...magnification will guide you to purity, so use it.

    Happy Sifting!
    Last edited by HaHaHashish; 12-19-2017, 11:25.

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  • Patmando22
    replied
    I must build now!

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  • EsterEssence
    replied
    Here is my tumbler, it is a 55 gal drum with a dog food container with 110 mesh hot glued in the inner container...
    Attached Files

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    A 220 micron mesh has openings that are too large, unless you are going to re-sift that rough contaminated resin through finer meshes (and there's nothing wrong with that!)..but if quality, not quantity is your aim, then I'd recommend using a 100 ~ 125 Mesh (150 ~ 125 micron mesh) for your tumbler so less contaminant passes through the mesh with the resin. It's easier to not allow the non-active plant matter to mix in with the resin than to try and remove it later with most methods...see the Hashish forum for the thread about how to apply mesh to wood and also on the many ways to dry sift, it's all there.

    Stainless steel meshes are ideal if you are tumbling (or flat screen sifting) any type of plant material (bud or trim with or w/o stems) while synthetic meshes also work well but are not as durable as S/S mesh and it's best not to try and tumble any stems with a nylon mesh or you might hole the mesh...though synthetic meshes are tougher than you think and the only time I've put holes in mesh is went I've dropped a sharp object like scissors or knife point on the mesh. To repair a screen frame or tumbler mesh with a hole, simply cut two pieces of sticky tape that are slightly larger than the hole and press them together on either side of the hole on the mesh so they stick together and cover the hole.

    For re-sifting over a finer flat screen, synthetic meshes are best as they are much more pleasant (the feel, touch and sound) to work on compared to S/S....there's nothing worse than carding over a S/S mesh
    Last edited by 99%; 05-12-2016, 12:22. Reason: Edit : corrected my recommended mesh sizes

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  • ProMixNSunshine
    replied
    Just about done running a bunch of popcorn and shlt through it, works great I fill the bucket 1/2 way & run it on a timer for 2 hr's. Best run so far was 1.5 oz's of some nice blonde, I am definitly in hash heaven right now!

    https://youtu.be/39oT4uT94mU

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  • Weird
    replied
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7svO9_eT8PU

    DIY parts are about 70

    not my video

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  • ProMixNSunshine
    replied
    Thanks for the inspiration Cameltom! As an auto mechanic trying to research doing A DIY tumbler I thought your basic design was genius! Honda wiper motor spins like a dream, can't wait to try it out.... I have a ratchet strap holding my freezer door closed atm, lol.


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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    So DIY'ing these seems pretty straightforward, even upping the game to add some extra layers of screen to further sort the wheat from the chaff as it where. Are metal screens that much better? They cost quite a bit more and seem like they would be slightly harder to work with. Some quick online searching also leads me to places that have minimum order sizes that are quite a bit larger than what one person would need. If I can just hit up dickblik for silk screening materials, thats great and would make it much easier, but if metal is really better for anything other than durability, clue a fella in.

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  • exploziv
    replied
    Great thread, Cameltom. if i manage to find some silk screen fabric around here I'll do a try to make one myself.

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  • Cameltom
    replied
    Originally posted by FtWendy View Post
    Neat thread. Has anybody used metal screen in their tumbler?
    i have not, however i plan on upgrading my drum over the winter.
    it would include a metal screen and metal sides

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  • MajLeeStoned
    replied

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