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My plant is starting to yellow at the start of flowering

NeDank

Active member
As you can see below my Sour 60 are starting to turn yellow. Not sure how well it shows in the pic but believe me it is.

For nutrients I'm feeding max dosage of BioThrive Gro (4 tsp) and Calmag+ (2 tsp)

Any advise is greatly appreciated! Have a nice day.

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G

Guest

Hey,what's your light schedule mate?Does she get any sleep?

Maybe light too close too?Some foliar epsom might helped,too.
 

NeDank

Active member
Hey,what's your light schedule mate?Does she get any sleep?

Maybe light too close too?Some foliar epsom might helped,too.

Light schedule is 24/0 and the lights are 50w auto cobs about a foot and a half away from the tops. This distance has worked well for me in the past.
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
In my limited experience, when the leafs go past the outside diameter of a pot, the roots are starting to get bound. If you have the space, you might try up-potting. With the plants that large, a 16/8 schedule is where I have my plants.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
You are in grow, so need more than 18 hours of light. 20 is about the sweet spot, but while a rest might make them look better, it's just helping with the symptoms, not the cause

I didn't want to comment as while the plants look light green, so do the seedlings. I can't see how much of this is camera deficiency. An overall yellowing of a plant points towards sulphur. Usually the plant remains in shape but new growth can be a bit twisty. Pretty much the picture we see here. My last sulphur problem was coming overnight and seemed linked to high root EC and low RH. Spraying just water on them was as useful as spraying epsom salts. While thought of as Mg, it actually contains more sulphur.

As this is some sort of compost grow, I don't see why any feed would be needed at this time. Certainly not a full dose. You may be acidifying the compost. Sulphur is best absorbed above pH6


Don't take my word for it though. I'm just another faceless unqualified voice. Go and look at sulphur pics in one of the sick plants help posts, pinned in the infirmary. I tend to look at the Joe Fresh and Stitch threads.

Oh.. I wrote this yesterday and fell to sleep..
 

NeDank

Active member
You are in grow, so need more than 18 hours of light. 20 is about the sweet spot, but while a rest might make them look better, it's just helping with the symptoms, not the cause

I didn't want to comment as while the plants look light green, so do the seedlings. I can't see how much of this is camera deficiency. An overall yellowing of a plant points towards sulphur. Usually the plant remains in shape but new growth can be a bit twisty. Pretty much the picture we see here. My last sulphur problem was coming overnight and seemed linked to high root EC and low RH. Spraying just water on them was as useful as spraying epsom salts. While thought of as Mg, it actually contains more sulphur.

As this is some sort of compost grow, I don't see why any feed would be needed at this time. Certainly not a full dose. You may be acidifying the compost. Sulphur is best absorbed above pH6


Don't take my word for it though. I'm just another faceless unqualified voice. Go and look at sulphur pics in one of the sick plants help posts, pinned in the infirmary. I tend to look at the Joe Fresh and Stitch threads.

Oh.. I wrote this yesterday and fell to sleep..

Thank you very much for helping me. I'll go to the hydro shop today to get sulfur. The humidity in my tent ranges from 40% to 60%. And this is not a compost grow it is coco coir and promix
 

aridbud

automeister
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Seems systemic. Did you check soil and water pH, as well? Usually sulphur or other deficiencies you see on some but not all leaves or entire plant. Just our experience.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Thank you very much for helping me. I'll go to the hydro shop today to get sulfur. The humidity in my tent ranges from 40% to 60%. And this is not a compost grow it is coco coir and promix

Epsom salts. I suggest a foliar feed for half your plants, so you can see it work. Mix as if fixing an Mg deficiency. It's about 10% Mg and 16% Sulphur iirc. Magnesium sulphate.

Sulphur is one of the few things that fade the whole plant.
 

f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
I should of really suggested a bit of water through them. Acidification is a good fit.
 
G

Guest

Cheapest route to acidification is to go back to square one:

Define photosynthesis. What is the purpose of the Calvin cycle? Plants do not make their own food, plants are sugar factories for acid-producing microbes. Sugars are sent to the roots at night, to help microbes produce their acids.
 
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TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
As you can see below my Sour 60 are starting to turn yellow. Not sure how well it shows in the pic but believe me it is.

For nutrients I'm feeding max dosage of BioThrive Gro (4 tsp) and Calmag+ (2 tsp)

Any advise is greatly appreciated! Have a nice day.

1. What is the medium?
2. You should really get a pH meter and an EC/PPM meter.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
How many hours of sleep do plants need?​
Plants need to sleep. They perform important respiratory functions at night. Seedlings should have at least 6 hours of darkness per day, and more mature plants at least 8-12 hours a day during flowering. Autos need sleep too.

Why do plants need dark period?

Periods of darkness are required for plants as it affects their metabolism. It also gives them time to stop producing food (photosynthesis) and use the huge amount of energy they've stored through the day to grow.

Plant metabolism is defined as the complex of physical and chemical events of photosynthesis, respiration, and the synthesis and degradation of organic compounds. Google

Lights out for healthier plants. 😎
 
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Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
You are in grow, so need more than 18 hours of light. 20 is about the sweet spot, but while a rest might make them look better, it's just helping with the symptoms, not the cause

I didn't want to comment as while the plants look light green, so do the seedlings. I can't see how much of this is camera deficiency. An overall yellowing of a plant points towards sulphur. Usually the plant remains in shape but new growth can be a bit twisty. Pretty much the picture we see here. My last sulphur problem was coming overnight and seemed linked to high root EC and low RH. Spraying just water on them was as useful as spraying epsom salts. While thought of as Mg, it actually contains more sulphur.

As this is some sort of compost grow, I don't see why any feed would be needed at this time. Certainly not a full dose. You may be acidifying the compost. Sulphur is best absorbed above pH6


Don't take my word for it though. I'm just another faceless unqualified voice. Go and look at sulphur pics in one of the sick plants help posts, pinned in the infirmary. I tend to look at the Joe Fresh and Stitch threads.

Oh.. I wrote this yesterday and fell to sleep..
How did I miss this. Agreed! I no longer grow autos but yes 20 is the sweet spot (so I've been told). I went with an 18/6 because when I grew them, it was alongside photo period plants. The gist of my post was to start with the basics, before delving in to the chemicals deficiency or over supply. For example, he also needs to get his RH in check (40-60%). VPD plays a large role as you know. There might be a little "winging it" there. Therefore it becomes very hard to put a finger on it (many variables). As others have said, you need the tools to do a good job. A doctor without a stethoscope can't diagnose s.... I do know one thing, once I got my VPD dialed in (I am quite anal about it) I stopped seeing deficiencies. I also changed my nute line and I have never looked back. TBS, I gave all my auto seeds away. :tiphat:
 
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