Ka5/VB/OTHxLieu Hanh and Vietnamese Black repro

[romanoweed]

@solarlogos , i just heard someone sucesfully pollinated Watermixed, and just wanted to hear if anyone can assure me this works.

If i think further, it might be possible to actually find another Fluid wich completely allows Plants still to be fertilized, such as "liquid Air" possibly? Or liuid carbon dioxide.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_oxygen

I mean binding Pollen completely may be easily achieved torugh liquids.. No pollen will fly whith tripple its weight, (assumed you mixe it well till every Pollen is Watertouched)

 

[MAHA KALA]

Wasn't that after the CIA/Air America took over the smuggling operations?

he sings," if he was the CIA, selling dope and making hay", so probably yes Johny would not lie.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzJOZYBFlt0

 

[funkyhorse]

Speaking of tips, I was reading the GA thread and I think you mentioned having some old seeds. The Khmer Gold I'm running now were 20 years old and the 1st seed didn't come up until day 31. By day 38 I had 34 seeds out of the ground. Unfortunately, only 12 had the vigor to get past the 1st set of true leaves. I relayed this to a member who tried it on old seeds and his started coming up on day 31 also. His rule now is old seeds go 6 weeks before getting dumped.
I scarified mine (or crack), soaked in coconut water, H202, roots accellurator and then planted in fresh EWC with a dome to hold humidity. Make sure there is nothing organic still in the castings, otherwise they will mold. Keep em warm and wait. As long as the medium stays lightly moist, that ewc will do magic over time.
My tip for old seeds: patience, they've been sleeping a long time, give them a long time to wake up.
Peace, God bless

Hi SL
Very interesting stuff, fei chan gan xie for posting and sharing knowledge



Could you please describe how you do the soaking? You mix coconut water, H2O2, roots accellerator at what proportions? Any water into the mix? how long they are soaking in the solution? 24-30 hours or more?

Romano, this is a proven succesful method for water pollination, I liked very much your method too SL, you should call it the inverted watering pollination:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=2032391&postcount=142


What is better, more efficient and less work: to water the whole plant and isolate a branch or to water the pollen without isolation?
Maybe the first method is better for big plants and water pollination works better for smaller plants? I ask because I dont know. Perhaps it is a combination of scale and environment the more appropiate method to use

 

[SolarLogos]

Germinating old seeds

Germinating old seeds

@solarlogos , i just heard someone sucesfully pollinated Watermixed, and just wanted to hear if anyone can assure me this works.

If i think further, it might be possible to actually find another Fluid wich completely allows Plants still to be fertilized, such as "liquid Air" possibly? Or liuid carbon dioxide.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_oxygen

I mean binding Pollen completely may be easily achieved torugh liquids.. No pollen will fly whith tripple its weight, (assumed you mixe it well till every Pollen is Watertouched)

Hi SL
Very interesting stuff, fei chan gan xie for posting and sharing knowledge
Could you please describe how you do the soaking? You mix coconut water, H2O2, roots accellerator at what proportions? Any water into the mix? how long they are soaking in the solution? 24-30 hours or more?

Romano, this is a proven succesful method for water pollination, I liked very much your method too SL, you should call it the inverted watering pollination:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=2032391&postcount=142


What is better, more efficient and less work: to water the whole plant and isolate a branch or to water the pollen without isolation?
Maybe the first method is better for big plants and water pollination works better for smaller plants? I ask because I dont know. Perhaps it is a combination of scale and environment the more appropiate method to use

Thank you very much for your kind words my friend. That link on the water pollination is interesting. I clicked on it though and only got one post of him pollinating a PCK, I didn't see the rest of the thread. I haven't had much time to research this, but I'm always looking for more knowledge and better methods. Thanks romanoweed for posting that.

I'm happy to share with you what I've found that works for me and some reasoning behind it. Maybe there is something someone can find useful from this
Here is what I do for old seeds:
My method involves washing the seeds to kill any fungus. Damping off is often a problem with old seeds. I soak seeds in tap water and household chlorine bleach (no scent, just plain bleach) for 20 minutes. The ratio is 1 Tablespoon of bleach per gallon of water.
After the soak, I dry the seeds and either crack the seeds or scarify them. I don't have a seed cracker but small hospital hemostats work if you're careful. Usually I scarify them with either fine sandpaper, 2000 grit or an emery board, the kind used for fingernails. Here, I just want to make a pin hole on the side of the seed along the ridge, where the 2 halves of the outer shells meet. You only need a light pass once or twice usually. Don't take too much off. Just break through and make a pinhole in the shell where the 2 halves meet. This allows the liquid to get in as old seeds usually have very hard shells.

Back to sterilization; I use latex gloves when handling the seeds after the 1st soak in bleach solution. Even if I use the paper towel method on new seeds, I use latex gloves, especially when transplanting them into the medium. I had about 20% of my seedlings die off several years ago from transplanting seedlings without gloves from paper towel to medium.
After cracking or scarifying the seeds, I put them in a strainer and rinse them in tap water.
I don't have access to fresh coconut milk, so I use organic, as fresh as I can find. Coconut is a seed, a nut or a fruit. But as a seed, it has pretty much all the goodies for a new plant to live on for a while. It has cytokinins, phytohormones which promote cell division, as well as gibberellic acid, which has been shown to increase old seed germination.
H202 increases the oxygen in the coconut water. Seeds need oxygen for aerobic respiration, breaking down food so the embryo can have energy. I don't know what other reasons for the H202, but I assume that is the primary function. I do know it increases germination rates. I'm guessing, but I would say my ration is about 1/4th teaspoon of 3% H202 to 2 shot glasses of coconut milk. You can add a pinch of finely powdered diastatic malt to add enzymes. On the KG repro, I also added 1 drop of Roots Excellurator Gold.

To be honest, Coconut milk and H202 are probably the most important ingredient. I think they are all important, but those 2 are really good by themselves. As far as time, I go 24 hours minimum and usually go 36 hours, depending on the seeds, my gut feelings, etc.
After the soak, plant the seeds in fresh ewc. I don't use the commercial bagged ewc sold on the shelves. I have my own worm farms just for these occasions. I'll use bagged ewc in soil, but not for sprouting seeds. I plant the seeds in trays or starter cups filled with fresh ewc, with seeds being planted 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Don't pack the ewc, keep it loose for oxygen and so the seeds don't get too wet. I put them in my cloning chamber and just mist spray the dome. Keep them warm and humid. I like to keep everything at 80-85F. As long as there is no remaining organic matter in the ewc, they won't mold. Don't let the ewc get dry. Mist spray them if they do. You don't want them too wet, but not dry either just moist. Keep the dome and walls inside the chamber sprayed once or twice.Because we don't want our seeds too wet and have plenty of oxygen, we want the RH to be very high. I put the whole thing on a seed mat and a thermometer inside to monitor temps and RH. RH is usually 85-99%.
Patience. The seeds have been asleep a long time, it takes time to wake up. My KG didn't come up until day 31, then they all started coming up after that. A friend of mine last month had the same thing with old seeds, started coming up on day 31. Give them time and lots of positive vibes.
Peace, God bless

 

[romanoweed]

@funkyhorse goooood Link man! I needed more Proove.
@solarlogos, CLICK ON THE RIGHT TOP CORNER, FOR WHOLE THREAD INSTEAD SINGLE POST

I opend a Thread about liquid Pollination: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=374750
one can find more Evidence liquid Pollination is an actual Thing there.

 

[funkyhorse]

Hi SL
Your post should be a tutorial on germinating old seeds with low and affordable technology
I would only add the measures in metrical system for those of us who are not used to the imperial system, which would be 100ml coconut water and 1.5ml H202 for the soaking solution
I will try misting the EWC pot with a solution made of 1 liter water 15 ml coconut water to keep delivering cytokinins and see if it accelerates in some days the sprouting

Thank you very much for taking your time to write it down

About water pollination. I am not into debates nor discussions and I dont feel comfortable with it, I am not into dick swinging contests nor in the who's got it bigger competition. I am interested in knowledge and facts
The link I posted is from Aeritos, breeder of tropical seeds co. It inspired me to do what I do. If water would kill or prevent pollination, I could never make seed.
It also inspired the cannabis cafe thread Romano mentioned in his linked thread, you can use a translator tool to read it:
https://www.cannabis cafe.net/foros/forum/cultivo-de-cannabis/crianza-y-gen%C3%83%C2%A9tica/380778-~~-~~fecundacion-liquida~~-~~
In your browser join the cannabis and the cafe part because the site is censored here


What I do is this: I am lazy and dont like working too much so I look for the simplest of all choices. I pollinate a low bud or two and immediately after that and it doesnt take more than 5 seconds to do it, I spray mist the pollinated bud with water so the pollen stays there and dont fly away, and if it does and a tiny little bit falls in the next bud and it makes seed, I dont mind because I make it just for myself and I am secured the bud/s I pollinated heavily are what I wanted to do.
If water kills pollen, I could never make seed.
And I think it is almost instant, at the same moment the pollen touches pistil, it forms seed. I doubt it need 30 mins minimum, I think it is much faster than that

Water dont prevent pollination. I like the bag method for keeping the pollen in the branch.

Questions for SL:
1) Why do you spray water the rest of the plant when you pollinate the branch?
2) Why bag EWC is not good for germinating old seeds? What would be the difference with the fresh one?

Have a nice weekend everybody

 

[Bmac1]

Thank you very much for your kind words my friend. That link on the water pollination is interesting. I clicked on it though and only got one post of him pollinating a PCK, I didn't see the rest of the thread. I haven't had much time to research this, but I'm always looking for more knowledge and better methods. Thanks romanoweed for posting that.

I'm happy to share with you what I've found that works for me and some reasoning behind it. Maybe there is something someone can find useful from this
Here is what I do for old seeds:
My method involves washing the seeds to kill any fungus. Damping off is often a problem with old seeds. I soak seeds in tap water and household chlorine bleach (no scent, just plain bleach) for 20 minutes. The ratio is 1 Tablespoon of bleach per gallon of water.
After the soak, I dry the seeds and either crack the seeds or scarify them. I don't have a seed cracker but small hospital hemostats work if you're careful. Usually I scarify them with either fine sandpaper, 2000 grit or an emery board, the kind used for fingernails. Here, I just want to make a pin hole on the side of the seed along the ridge, where the 2 halves of the outer shells meet. You only need a light pass once or twice usually. Don't take too much off. Just break through and make a pinhole in the shell where the 2 halves meet. This allows the liquid to get in as old seeds usually have very hard shells.

Back to sterilization; I use latex gloves when handling the seeds after the 1st soak in bleach solution. Even if I use the paper towel method on new seeds, I use latex gloves, especially when transplanting them into the medium. I had about 20% of my seedlings die off several years ago from transplanting seedlings without gloves from paper towel to medium.
After cracking or scarifying the seeds, I put them in a strainer and rinse them in tap water.
I don't have access to fresh coconut milk, so I use organic, as fresh as I can find. Coconut is a seed, a nut or a fruit. But as a seed, it has pretty much all the goodies for a new plant to live on for a while. It has cytokinins, phytohormones which promote cell division, as well as gibberellic acid, which has been shown to increase old seed germination.
H202 increases the oxygen in the coconut water. Seeds need oxygen for aerobic respiration, breaking down food so the embryo can have energy. I don't know what other reasons for the H202, but I assume that is the primary function. I do know it increases germination rates. I'm guessing, but I would say my ration is about 1/4th teaspoon of 3% H202 to 2 shot glasses of coconut milk. You can add a pinch of finely powdered diastatic malt to add enzymes. On the KG repro, I also added 1 drop of Roots Excellurator Gold.

To be honest, Coconut milk and H202 are probably the most important ingredient. I think they are all important, but those 2 are really good by themselves. As far as time, I go 24 hours minimum and usually go 36 hours, depending on the seeds, my gut feelings, etc.
After the soak, plant the seeds in fresh ewc. I don't use the commercial bagged ewc sold on the shelves. I have my own worm farms just for these occasions. I'll use bagged ewc in soil, but not for sprouting seeds. I plant the seeds in trays or starter cups filled with fresh ewc, with seeds being planted 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Don't pack the ewc, keep it loose for oxygen and so the seeds don't get too wet. I put them in my cloning chamber and just mist spray the dome. Keep them warm and humid. I like to keep everything at 80-85F. As long as there is no remaining organic matter in the ewc, they won't mold. Don't let the ewc get dry. Mist spray them if they do. You don't want them too wet, but not dry either just moist. Keep the dome and walls inside the chamber sprayed once or twice.Because we don't want our seeds too wet and have plenty of oxygen, we want the RH to be very high. I put the whole thing on a seed mat and a thermometer inside to monitor temps and RH. RH is usually 85-99%.
Patience. The seeds have been asleep a long time, it takes time to wake up. My KG didn't come up until day 31, then they all started coming up after that. A friend of mine last month had the same thing with old seeds, started coming up on day 31. Give them time and lots of positive vibes.
Peace, God bless

Great post.

I had recently watched a youtube video that I cannot seem to find at the moment. It was Kevin Jodrey talking about cracking old seeds by soaking them in sprouted bean water. I am thinking it has some of the same benefit as your use of the coconut milk and the cytokinin's.

 

[dubi]

Hi SolarLogos,

I like a lot the balance of traits of your Ka5/VBxOTH She has the fatty colas of Killler A5 Haze with a very tropical sativa flower structure that reminds me a balance of Vietnamese and Haze.
Love the work you do friend

 

[SolarLogos]

Hi SL
Your post should be a tutorial on germinating old seeds with low and affordable technology
I would only add the measures in metrical system for those of us who are not used to the imperial system, which would be 100ml coconut water and 1.5ml H202 for the soaking solution
I will try misting the EWC pot with a solution made of 1 liter water 15 ml coconut water to keep delivering cytokinins and see if it accelerates in some days the sprouting

Thank you very much for taking your time to write it down

About water pollination. I am not into debates nor discussions and I dont feel comfortable with it, I am not into dick swinging contests nor in the who's got it bigger competition. I am interested in knowledge and facts
The link I posted is from Aeritos, breeder of tropical seeds co. It inspired me to do what I do. If water would kill or prevent pollination, I could never make seed.
It also inspired the cannabis cafe thread Romano mentioned in his linked thread, you can use a translator tool to read it:
https://www.cannabis cafe.net/foros/forum/cultivo-de-cannabis/crianza-y-gen%C3%83%C2%A9tica/380778-~~-~~fecundacion-liquida~~-~~
In your browser join the cannabis and the cafe part because the site is censored here


What I do is this: I am lazy and dont like working too much so I look for the simplest of all choices. I pollinate a low bud or two and immediately after that and it doesnt take more than 5 seconds to do it, I spray mist the pollinated bud with water so the pollen stays there and dont fly away, and if it does and a tiny little bit falls in the next bud and it makes seed, I dont mind because I make it just for myself and I am secured the bud/s I pollinated heavily are what I wanted to do.
If water kills pollen, I could never make seed.
And I think it is almost instant, at the same moment the pollen touches pistil, it forms seed. I doubt it need 30 mins minimum, I think it is much faster than that

Water dont prevent pollination. I like the bag method for keeping the pollen in the branch.

Questions for SL:
1) Why do you spray water the rest of the plant when you pollinate the branch?
2) Why bag EWC is not good for germinating old seeds? What would be the difference with the fresh one?

Have a nice weekend everybody

Thanks for your reply friend. The reason I use water is to kill pollen. That of course, is assuming it's killing pollen. So far, I've not transferred pollen to other plants doing this. I've seen the science behind water killing pollen. Since this was first brought up, I've been rethinking a lot of what I'm doing. I used pollen that I collect, then dry because I store mine in a freezer. Any moisture could expand in the freezer damaging the pollen cells. Perhaps pollen that is collected and introduced to the water, without drying the pollen, the pollen would remain viable. Perhaps water only damages pollen after it has been dried, then re-hydrated by the water. I think an experiment adding dry pollen to water and another with fresh pollen added to water and see if there is a difference. Unfortunately, I'm pretty buried in projects and might try this if I can squeeze it in. If it works, the next question would be can a solution of pollen and water be frozen and then later used and if so, how long can it remain frozen? Thanks for bringing this up, I'm like you, not here to force my point of view on others, just respect everyone's freewill.
Why fresh ewc? I've personally not had luck with off the shelf ewc, but by all means give it a try if that is all you have. All of the bagged, off the shelf ewc available here are all mixed and not pure. I find fresh, living and still moist ewc seem to have a little more magic, so to speak.
Peace, God bless

 

[SolarLogos]

Hi SolarLogos,

I like a lot the balance of traits of your Ka5/VBxOTH She has the fatty colas of Killler A5 Haze with a very tropical sativa flower structure that reminds me a balance of Vietnamese and Haze.
Love the work you do friend

Thank you for your kind words and thoughts my friend. I really feel fortunate to have found her among all the tall, longer flowering haze phenos. Those longer haze phenos are real haze energy kind of high, where as this shorter, compact pheno is pure gold. The high is leans a lot more towards the Vietnamese side of the happy, trippy high, but with a bit of haze energy and haze vibes. It gets its quick come on and power from the Malawi side, I'm sure. I crossed her with the Lieu Hanh (Nevils haze x Vietnamese Black) so I hope to find a male to back cross into her, or get lucky again and find another female I prefer.
As I mentioned to you, all 3 of the males of the Khmer Gold hermied. The good news is the girls are in week 6 of flower and stable so far. I pollinated a few of the girls with Original Haze, OTH, Vietnamese Black, Lieu Hanh (both the dark and lime pheno).
I have clones rooting that I will reverse and pollinate another set of clones to at least preserve this line in female form. I've pollinated some lower branches with the male hermie pollen and if necessary, will search through those seeds for a firm male. That could be a long search and difficult project, but eventually needs to be done.
Peace, God bless

 

[SolarLogos]

Great post.

I had recently watched a youtube video that I cannot seem to find at the moment. It was Kevin Jodrey talking about cracking old seeds by soaking them in sprouted bean water. I am thinking it has some of the same benefit as your use of the coconut milk and the cytokinin's.

Funny you mentioned this. I tried this on some old seeds that didn't have enough vigor to get past the 1st set of true leaves. I let the seeds sprout, then pressed them through a garlic press and added equal amounts of RO water and fed the plants. It didn't help, but I'm sure if added to the coconut water it could add the additional enzymes, hormones and nutrition for old seeds sprouting.

 

[funkyhorse]

Hi SL
I am very curious about the water sollution with fresh pollen if it will keep viable frozen and for how long, interesting thinking!
My males were outdoors enjoying large amounts of rain and didnt affect their pollen productivity nor quality. I guess cannabis couldnt have survived if fresh pollen is killed by water
It seems dried and fresh pollen are two different products that must be handled differently

I think this is the youtube show Bmac1 commented:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqOzj2VUAM0&feature=youtu.be

Dubi, I own you an apology
I thought the existence of Grassman was a story because some historical and geographical facts are wrong in the description.
Grassman came here on the haze discusssion thread and cleared up what batch of libanese it was. It is the same stuff I was calling Arava strain. I thought it was grown on that desert because those seeded buds had so much desert sand/rocks in it.
It is different stuff from the Libanese of the 80's and the libanese of the XXI century.
Thank you and Grassman for preserving it

 

[funkyhorse]

Hi SL
I start today to try the method, I received some fresh EWC from a neighbour, this is very different stuff from dry worm castings and from substrate too
She told me in order to keep fresh, they must be humid and all the stuff you explained it makes total sense once I got the material with me

My humidity here oscilates between 55%-85% depending on the aircon thermostate, when it cuts humidity goes high
Spray mist evenly like a light rain on the whole propagator to keep fresh EWC humid. Would you do it every 24 hours? If I spray mist on solo cups every 3 days on substrate, what would be the ratio for fresh EWC to spray mist compared to substrate? 3 times more often, twice more often?
Thank you very much and have a nice weekend

 

[SolarLogos]

Hi SL
I start today to try the method, I received some fresh EWC from a neighbour, this is very different stuff from dry worm castings and from substrate too
She told me in order to keep fresh, they must be humid and all the stuff you explained it makes total sense once I got the material with me

My humidity here oscilates between 55%-85% depending on the aircon thermostate, when it cuts humidity goes high
Spray mist evenly like a light rain on the whole propagator to keep fresh EWC humid. Would you do it every 24 hours? If I spray mist on solo cups every 3 days on substrate, what would be the ratio for fresh EWC to spray mist compared to substrate? 3 times more often, twice more often?
Thank you very much and have a nice weekend

If you are referring to old seeds, then after putting them in ewc, I put the humidity dome on and spray the dome. The hygrometer read 99% humidity, so the ewc mostly stayed moist on their own. I may have sprayed them once or twice, I cannot remember. I just made sure they stayed moist and in a dark place, no light.
Fresh ewc is black gold, it's amazing how well seedlings to adult plants respond to it.
I haven't done anything recently trying to pollinate with water, but I have been busy collecting a lot of pollen and making crosses
Here is the Purple Haze Satellite. I've crossed her with the following:
Zamal MC x Tom Hill Haze
Honduran, both H5 & H6 males.
Original Haze


PHS

 

[SolarLogos]

Ko Chang x Thai x THH

Ko Chang x Thai x THH

I have 3 (Koh Chang x Thai Stick)xTom Hill Haze outdoors. Tops are bent down so they will fit in the greenhouse this winter.
I have crossed her with the following:
Zamal MC x Tom Hill Haze
Vietnamese Black (2 phenos, one compact, one "bamboo") I chose the bamboo pheno male, even though he didn't have much flower structure, hardly any, he is a very greasy, burnt rubber with a kind of meaty/suede smell and very, very late flowering. He interests me.
Vietnamese Black-purple pheno x Lieu Hanh-dark pheno (nevils haze x Vietnamese Black)


Thai x THH

Zamal MC x Tom Hill Haze. She was pollinated with the same at above

A few early seeds pollinated with the male Zamal x THH

Thanks for stopping by
Peace, God bless

 

[funkyhorse]

If you are referring to old seeds, then after putting them in ewc, I put the humidity dome on and spray the dome. The hygrometer read 99% humidity, so the ewc mostly stayed moist on their own. I may have sprayed them once or twice, I cannot remember. I just made sure they stayed moist and in a dark place, no light.
Fresh ewc is black gold, it's amazing how well seedlings to adult plants respond to it.

Fei Chan Gan Xie for feedback!

Yes, I am trying to sprout some old seeds, Seedsman Haze which seems to be done in 2009 according to what I have read at the haze thread and Senegal Haze which should have been done in 2008 or before
I put the humidity dome in the veg room like I do with normal seeds so they have light like if they would be outdoors
I do keep the fresh EWC in a dark place and I spray mist it to keep it active
Should I take the humidity dome with the old seeds out of the veg room and put them in a dark place?

Thank you very much for help, very appreciated. I cant believe I am trying this, I sprouted my first seeds just 2 years ago and I really dont know much about botanics...without cannabis forums this would be an impossible mission and anyway this is not an easy one

Have a nice weekend!

 

[SolarLogos]

Fei Chan Gan Xie for feedback!

Yes, I am trying to sprout some old seeds, Seedsman Haze which seems to be done in 2009 according to what I have read at the haze thread and Senegal Haze which should have been done in 2008 or before
I put the humidity dome in the veg room like I do with normal seeds so they have light like if they would be outdoors
I do keep the fresh EWC in a dark place and I spray mist it to keep it active
Should I take the humidity dome with the old seeds out of the veg room and put them in a dark place?

Thank you very much for help, very appreciated. I cant believe I am trying this, I sprouted my first seeds just 2 years ago and I really dont know much about botanics...without cannabis forums this would be an impossible mission and anyway this is not an easy one

Have a nice weekend!

If they are buried, they should be dark, I think I did that to keep light from drying the medium, but also I believe they need dark to germ. Be patient, mine took 31 days to come up. Best of luck
Peace, God bless

 

[romanoweed]

@Solarlogos:
How does a Seed that taks 31 Days to crack look?
I tossed 10 Seeds that didnt germ after 10 Days , and the Shells became so Dark, nearly moldy/rotten. Did yours keep a fresh look?
Probably you havent dug them out, then skip the Question.

 

[F2F]

Here is the Purple Haze Satellite. I've crossed her with the following:
Zamal MC x Tom Hill Haze
Honduran, both H5 & H6 males.
Original Haze


PHS
View Image

View Image

Hiya Solar, been waiting to see that lady.

Is she on a faster pace than the PH? Looks like the yield will be very nice. Im voting for the Honduran cross based on your previous descriptions. Best of luck as you continue the journey!

Your Thai x THH look very bountiful as well. Lots of rocket fuel!

Take care brother. Peace,
F2F

 

[SolarLogos]

@Solarlogos:
How does a Seed that taks 31 Days to crack look?
I tossed 10 Seeds that didnt germ after 10 Days , and the Shells became so Dark, nearly moldy/rotten. Did yours keep a fresh look?
Probably you havent dug them out, then skip the Question.

I dug up a couple of seeds that didn't grow and they looked like ordinary dry seeds, but slightly moist. If they looked soggy, they are no good. Your medium may have been too wet. Once they have soaked, they only need the soil moist enough that the medium making contact with the seed doesn't dry completely, but it still needs oxygen for the seed to come up. I'm pretty sure that is the main benefit of adding H202 to seed soaking water as it adds necessary oxygen. I have soaked seeds up to 36 hours, prefer only 24 hours soak, 12 hours for normal seeds. If you soak too long, they get mushy and are no good. I also prefer to crack seeds rather than scarify. I did scarify seeds for a long time and found good success, but old seeds don't like to separate their shells. I've had the seed start to grow but the seed shell didn't open. What ends up happening is the white part of the seed inside will get forced out the little hold made by the sandpaper, in which case I had to crack them quickly. I found cracking seeds easier if you soak them 12 hours, dry them and they crack easier and more gently, so less chance of smashing the seeds when they finally go "pop". Then you can soak another 12 hours if you want.
For seed cracking, I use hemostats. They make a devise for this but I don't have one. I don't crack the seed in the middle of the seed, so much chance of damaging the seed if the shell is really stubborn. I crack the top/point at the tip. Then I crack the bottom of the seed, where the "hinge" is (where it grew to the plant). Just crack until you hear a crack sound, it's a very gentle "crack".
Hope this helps.