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SoCal advice - decomposed granite

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
Need advice Anybody growing is SoCal decomposed granite (avocado and citrus grove). I’ve dug out 50 gallon holes. Looking for advice to amend and back fill the soil. Grove is well established...at least 30 years old. Thanks.
 

Lyfespan

Active member
Need advice Anybody growing is SoCal decomposed granite (avocado and citrus grove). I’ve dug out 50 gallon holes. Looking for advice to amend and back fill the soil. Grove is well established...at least 30 years old. Thanks.

need a soil analysis, otherwise its all just guess work. lots of variables in native soils:tiphat:
 

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
need a soil analysis, otherwise its all just guess work. lots of variables in native soils:tiphat:

Yes, I know that is ideal. Given the Covid issues...I’m not sure I will get a soil analysis this season but ultimately I would like to see that done.

Thanks
 

EsterEssence

Well-known member
Veteran
I knew some guys that had to jackhammer holes in DG, they filled the holes with a soil mix and when they watered the soil mix would become saturated but the DG didn’t absorb much water so the plant roots could not penetrate the DG.
 

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
I knew some guys that had to jackhammer holes in DG, they filled the holes with a soil mix and when they watered the soil mix would become saturated but the DG didn’t absorb much water so the plant roots could not penetrate the DG.

Nothing that serious. I dug out approximate 50 gallon holes with a hand shovel. It’s a citrus and avocado grove. There is very light organic and the DG is rather small granules. It should have very high drainage in the native. I was told to add 30% compost. I will also add a small amount of manure and some mycorrhizae. Depending on water pH, possibly some sulfur in the toP 2-3 inches. Granular organic vegetable nutrients and then fertilize periodically as needed.
 

buzzmobile

Well-known member
Veteran
There are diy soil test kits available. Some are more accurate than others.

Accuracy Varies for Commercially Available Soil Test Kits Analyzing Nitrate–Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, and pH

La Motte Soil Test Kit results corresponded to those from the analytical laboratory for pH and all nutrients (94% of the tests matched). This kit is suitable for growers, cooperative extension personnel, and university-level laboratory classes because it proved to be accurate over a wide pH range. The individual extractants and indicators for each test, although accurate, may be cumbersome for the home gardener, however. Rapitest yielded accurate results 92% of the time for all nutrients and pH less than 7.5 and was comparatively easy to use and interpret with color-coded extractants and test boxes and instructions in large print on stiff paperboard; this kit would be a good choice for the home gardener. Quick Soiltest matched the analytical laboratory results 64% of the time because K2O and pH results did not match those obtained from the laboratory analysis. Soil Kit and NittyGritty were unable to reproduce laboratory analysis findings for P2O5 in any soil. Because some kits underestimate nutrient concentrations, overapplications of fertilizer could result from their use.

An important limitation of all commercial test kits is the approximate or categorical value of nutrient levels into broad categories of low, medium, or high. Analytical laboratories must be used when precise nutrient levels or interpretation are required. Nevertheless, commercially available kits such as Rapitest and La Motte Soil Test Kit were 92% and 94% accurate, respectively, for the soils tested and are a fast and economic means by which farmers, home gardeners, and agricultural service personnel can improve nutrient management for crop production and environmental protection.
 

Mtn. Nectar

Well-known member
Veteran
neighbor used jackhammer in Sierra foothills for DG......3-5 elbows on avg.

many options (SoCal) with varieties for ya as well......best in killing it.......

ganj on.....
 

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
neighbor used jackhammer in Sierra foothills for DG......3-5 elbows on avg.

many options (SoCal) with varieties for ya as well......best in killing it.......

ganj on.....

Haha. I used my back and a shovel but a jackhammer would have been nice. The last couple holes were filled with oak roots which wasn’t a lot of fun. I’ll be running some varying genetics in a couple different spots this year. Lots of Ace (Malawi, Purple Haze/Malawi, Old Timer’s, Belida Kif, Killer A5, Super Malawi Haze) along with SSSDH, Strawberry Diesel, F13. That’s what’s vegging now anyway. Peace.

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Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
More pics of the grove. I added 30% compost to the decomposed granite soil.

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Plan to mix in some chicken and cow manure as well pelletized organic vegetable fertilizer. 3-4 inches mulch on top. Plant in clones early April.
 
I would maybe stash 75 percent of that and use the rest to mix with coco coir and run V+B irrigation to them because a one gallon hole with some homemade super soil ain't gonna do dick. You'll get some smoke fo sho but dont quit your summer job. Make them 5 gallon holes and now we are talking. Maybe line the top of the hole with an old tire like them Jamaican growers be doing. But whatever you do, line the bottom with porous lava rocks or grow stones to get some draw going. It's going to suck air to the roots.

If you are still convinced you can accept the harvest your going to get, like maybe 7g per pot. Then use native oak duff, mulched prickly pear and some great white shark, dont look back.

Btw it's probably Granitc Diorite and not dg like everybody says, slight difference.
 

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
I would maybe stash 75 percent of that and use the rest to mix with coco coir and run V+B irrigation to them because a one gallon hole with some homemade super soil ain't gonna do dick. You'll get some smoke fo sho but dont quit your summer job. Make them 5 gallon holes and now we are talking. Maybe line the top of the hole with an old tire like them Jamaican growers be doing. But whatever you do, line the bottom with porous lava rocks or grow stones to get some draw going. It's going to suck air to the roots.

If you are still convinced you can accept the harvest your going to get, like maybe 7g per pot. Then use native oak duff, mulched prickly pear and some great white shark, dont look back.

Btw it's probably Granitc Diorite and not dg like everybody says, slight difference.

Thanks for the comments. Holes dug out at about 50 gallons each. Plan to add additional organic and adjust pH as necessary. Mychorrizae on the roots before planting in. Don’t think I need to line the bottoms. The soil is very porous and if anything, attempting to amend in order to keep some moisture in the surrounding soil.
 

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
I took 3 soil samples and used a basic home soil test to get an idea of what I’m dealing with. pH ranges 7.0-7.6 (Avg. 7.3). Nitrogen effectively depleted. Phosphorous adequate to high adequate and K low adequate to adequate. I plan to add some EWC and some additional amendments (high N, Ca, elemental sulfur + Sul/Po/Mg, azomite). I will hit the roots with mycorrhiza when I plant in. Appreciate any thoughts on that plan or if anyone has an alternate or additional suggestions.
 

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
Just wanted to update the thread to say the amendments to the native soil all seem to be working in concert.

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F-13

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SSSDH #2 6 footer

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SSSDH #1 slightly shorter

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Killer Malawi S1

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Purple Haze x Malawi also well over 5 feet
 

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
I think you mentioned that already. All rocks release radioactive isotopes. This is native Southern California soil. About 90% of the worlds avocados are grown in this type of soil...amongst many other fruits. My Geiger counter is very quiet out here. Thanks for the concern though.
 

Sunshineinabag

Active member
I took 3 soil samples and used a basic home soil test to get an idea of what I’m dealing with. pH ranges 7.0-7.6 (Avg. 7.3). Nitrogen effectively depleted. Phosphorous adequate to high adequate and K low adequate to adequate. I plan to add some EWC and some additional amendments (high N, Ca, elemental sulfur + Sul/Po/Mg, azomite). I will hit the roots with mycorrhiza when I plant in. Appreciate any thoughts on that plan or if anyone has an alternate or additional suggestions.

My uncle uses rock dusts in his permaculture orchards. Uses whey I think he said to spray for disease etc. It's nice to see such diligence by u:woohoo:
 

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks Sunshine. This grove is pretty well established it seems. Very few issues with the amended soil so far.

Full sun shots

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flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
IMO, the way dope was supposed to be grown. You don't have issues with insects?

I like the irrigation sprinklers.
 

Ur Humbl Nr8tor

Well-known member
Veteran
IMO, the way dope was supposed to be grown. You don't have issues with insects?

I like the irrigation sprinklers.

Thanks, flylowtogethigh. I’ve got a cricket or grasshopper that’s been nibbling on the F-13. Otherwise no. I use an OMRI listed horticultural oil in a sprayer every couple weeks for PM. Added some silica this time because it’s going to get hot out there over the next two months.

Sprinklers have been established for years to citrus and avocados. Just taking advantage. They don’t seem to mind higher pH and ppm in local water. Hope that maintains through flowering.
 
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