Two ounces potentially of dried bud off a plant flowered in a six ounce cup.
Two ounces.
You so humble eighths, lol.
Two ounces.
You so humble eighths, lol.
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YOGURT CUP CHALLENGE SUMMER/FALL 2015
- Thread starter Avinash.miles
- Start date
- Status
earthwyrms
Active member
SPACEWEED
SPACEWEED
New Note 20
#254, i meant trichoderma
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trichoderma
root helping fungi.
Dropped Cat, i am wondering if your Zamaldelica in yogurt cup can be done inside of greek yogurt containers soldered ends to ends to make `1ft tall chamber with a 10w LED chip at the top.
with a small enclosure and light containment and the ability to pull off the top to LST, it may be really economical for the yogurt cup challenge.
*if you take the 4 cup containers
tak two together top to top (open to open) by slowly tacking in the rims, keeping them even, going around
*then take two more, and making sure to have them alighned (maybe a hole in the center), use the soldering iron to melt through both layers where the bottoms meet, avoid the smoke/be outside and/or well ventilated and cut a circle, keeping as close to the rim as possible, to minimize lip (and light loss).
*one side of this will fit snuggly over the first piece formed.
*tack weld
(i meant to say continually tak in the side lips at a 90 degree angle, sufficient that it melts and merges the two layers, and move machine like fashion, along the perimeter. it will look like little lines pointing upwards after unless smeared)
one more container top to top of one side of the second piece.
this way, when it is fit snug on the first piece made, this new second piece (having three pieces) will have a top that is narrow/the bottom of a container.
*now take one more container and weld it bottom onto the bottom at the top. take another one and remove the bottom and set that into the one on the top. these two settled together can be trimmed at any height, the ease of doing the next step can be done by starting the weld from the bottom.
*get an ovaltine container, take the top off, take the solder tool and keeping the smoke away from your eyes (goggles) and nose if possible, do the same melt in and carve out of a circle with the rim barely there.
*now if one takes off the top, they can see to the bottom of the chamber.
*cut the bottom off the original container.
*take a 2 liter soda bottle with straight sides and cut off the top right before it starts to narrow.
* fit this over the bottom of the contraption. this can hold soil and the top part can be removed.
*the idea for the LED 10W COB is one of the full spectrum ones, mounted on a heatsink.
*the idea for the heatsink it to cool it with the draft from the scrubber fans above it.
*the idea is to fit the heatsinked LED into the bottom of the inverted cup area. the area itself is carved out and the led is held there by holding or wedging the heatsink somehow. the power wires are fed out an appropriate hole and sealed. the ovaltine container is fitted with a porous filter and coco carbon. two 80mm fans are glued/stacked together on top of the ovaltine top (80mm, also a small size JIF peanut butter container top has an 80mm top that fits well on the ovaltine top and can maybe be tightened better). the top is cored out prior.
*keeping the top from unscrewing is something i am unsure about (i think the fans spin counter clockwise so the torque should keep them tight) as well as standing the thing up straight (i'm sure it is not to difficult to keep it in place).
*some sort of inlet system or hole should be made in the two liter bottom, towards it's top.
if making three holes and wanting same inlet area, use 46-47mm holes.
((((pi40sqrd)/3)/pi)sqrroot)times two<< lookimg at that, i realized the pi can be left out, so just radius squared then divide by three then square root that thats the radius, then times that by two. its got a 23.09401077 which times two is 46.18802154 so i wrote 46-47mm. also the fans all have circles where the motors are so those areas should seemingly be removed from the air opening calculations in theory, but being that they are powered fans the inlet hole size is probably a function of their operaring specifications. i figure two Noctua NF-A8 fans have superb Static pressure and alright airflow (all while being super quit 17,7 dB(A), which is under the sound of rustling leaves according to here http://www.noisehelp.com/noise-level-chart.html)
noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=100&lng=en&set=1
i figure that kind of airflow and pressure is enough to pull enough air to cool the heatsink, power the scrubber, and exchange air for the plant. i don't know yet.
Dropped Cat, i got the idea when i saw your Zamaldelica in a yogurt cup and the LSTing (training {i had to learn what that meant somewhere once})
that you had done on it and i don't know if 10W is enough but i hacked part of this together (i mentioned measure the centering of the welds above...because i was a little off and after making a hole and patching a hole and....it is supremely sloppy and you can do better probably if you make sure it is measured twice and soldered once
).
i think this may work because 10W probably is not too hot, can be heatsunk well enough and if it is the full spectrum led COB, and contained, it may pack enough energy to grow a mini plant, a sativa Zamdelica, really efficiently.
a plus could be also for micro (or nano) breeding or isolation and if one is male, it is already contained. theoretically one can make a fleet of pods like this and manage them easily.
there are these micronized retro reflective particles for use in reflective clothing and painting and stuff on ebay. if the inside of these containers is already white, and given a coat of super glue spray or something and then these tiny particles are sprayed or shaken or somehow without getting them everywhere or inhaling them, gotten on the wall to set, and the outside is spray painted black while all fitted together (maybe with quick seal from Rust-Oleumwhick would maybe give it a good seal that can be recut with a razor blade) then it may be super awesome.
looking at the thing i cobbled together so far, i am reminded of a rocket ship and i like thinking about space travel (like actual space travel. and also getting high space travel too).
i hope this helps alot
i error proofed, if i goofed please let me know
SPACEWEED
New Note 20
#254, i meant trichoderma
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trichoderma
root helping fungi.
Dropped Cat, i am wondering if your Zamaldelica in yogurt cup can be done inside of greek yogurt containers soldered ends to ends to make `1ft tall chamber with a 10w LED chip at the top.
with a small enclosure and light containment and the ability to pull off the top to LST, it may be really economical for the yogurt cup challenge.
*if you take the 4 cup containers
tak two together top to top (open to open) by slowly tacking in the rims, keeping them even, going around
*then take two more, and making sure to have them alighned (maybe a hole in the center), use the soldering iron to melt through both layers where the bottoms meet, avoid the smoke/be outside and/or well ventilated and cut a circle, keeping as close to the rim as possible, to minimize lip (and light loss).
*one side of this will fit snuggly over the first piece formed.
*tack weld
(i meant to say continually tak in the side lips at a 90 degree angle, sufficient that it melts and merges the two layers, and move machine like fashion, along the perimeter. it will look like little lines pointing upwards after unless smeared)
one more container top to top of one side of the second piece.
this way, when it is fit snug on the first piece made, this new second piece (having three pieces) will have a top that is narrow/the bottom of a container.
*now take one more container and weld it bottom onto the bottom at the top. take another one and remove the bottom and set that into the one on the top. these two settled together can be trimmed at any height, the ease of doing the next step can be done by starting the weld from the bottom.
*get an ovaltine container, take the top off, take the solder tool and keeping the smoke away from your eyes (goggles) and nose if possible, do the same melt in and carve out of a circle with the rim barely there.
*now if one takes off the top, they can see to the bottom of the chamber.
*cut the bottom off the original container.
*take a 2 liter soda bottle with straight sides and cut off the top right before it starts to narrow.
* fit this over the bottom of the contraption. this can hold soil and the top part can be removed.
*the idea for the LED 10W COB is one of the full spectrum ones, mounted on a heatsink.
*the idea for the heatsink it to cool it with the draft from the scrubber fans above it.
*the idea is to fit the heatsinked LED into the bottom of the inverted cup area. the area itself is carved out and the led is held there by holding or wedging the heatsink somehow. the power wires are fed out an appropriate hole and sealed. the ovaltine container is fitted with a porous filter and coco carbon. two 80mm fans are glued/stacked together on top of the ovaltine top (80mm, also a small size JIF peanut butter container top has an 80mm top that fits well on the ovaltine top and can maybe be tightened better). the top is cored out prior.
*keeping the top from unscrewing is something i am unsure about (i think the fans spin counter clockwise so the torque should keep them tight) as well as standing the thing up straight (i'm sure it is not to difficult to keep it in place).
*some sort of inlet system or hole should be made in the two liter bottom, towards it's top.
if making three holes and wanting same inlet area, use 46-47mm holes.
((((pi40sqrd)/3)/pi)sqrroot)times two<< lookimg at that, i realized the pi can be left out, so just radius squared then divide by three then square root that thats the radius, then times that by two. its got a 23.09401077 which times two is 46.18802154 so i wrote 46-47mm. also the fans all have circles where the motors are so those areas should seemingly be removed from the air opening calculations in theory, but being that they are powered fans the inlet hole size is probably a function of their operaring specifications. i figure two Noctua NF-A8 fans have superb Static pressure and alright airflow (all while being super quit 17,7 dB(A), which is under the sound of rustling leaves according to here http://www.noisehelp.com/noise-level-chart.html)
noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=100&lng=en&set=1
i figure that kind of airflow and pressure is enough to pull enough air to cool the heatsink, power the scrubber, and exchange air for the plant. i don't know yet.
Dropped Cat, i got the idea when i saw your Zamaldelica in a yogurt cup and the LSTing (training {i had to learn what that meant somewhere once})
that you had done on it and i don't know if 10W is enough but i hacked part of this together (i mentioned measure the centering of the welds above...because i was a little off and after making a hole and patching a hole and....it is supremely sloppy and you can do better probably if you make sure it is measured twice and soldered once
).i think this may work because 10W probably is not too hot, can be heatsunk well enough and if it is the full spectrum led COB, and contained, it may pack enough energy to grow a mini plant, a sativa Zamdelica, really efficiently.
a plus could be also for micro (or nano) breeding or isolation and if one is male, it is already contained. theoretically one can make a fleet of pods like this and manage them easily.
there are these micronized retro reflective particles for use in reflective clothing and painting and stuff on ebay. if the inside of these containers is already white, and given a coat of super glue spray or something and then these tiny particles are sprayed or shaken or somehow without getting them everywhere or inhaling them, gotten on the wall to set, and the outside is spray painted black while all fitted together (maybe with quick seal from Rust-Oleumwhick would maybe give it a good seal that can be recut with a razor blade) then it may be super awesome.
looking at the thing i cobbled together so far, i am reminded of a rocket ship and i like thinking about space travel (like actual space travel. and also getting high space travel too
).i hope this helps alot
i error proofed, if i goofed please let me know
Attachments
earthwyrms
Active member
earthwyrms
Active member
easier to read, brief picture instruction sheet
easier to read, brief picture instruction sheet
easier to read, brief picture instruction sheet
idea is
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=308471&page=17
post #247,
Ganja Outlaws
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=308471&page=15
#216,
FaX!
post #217,
Ganja Outlaws
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=192717&page=3
post #34,
Dropped Cat. micro LST Zamaldelica
the leaves may be able to be supported up against the walls by resting on them and the fan upwards draft.
retroreflective micronized pigment attached by super glue to the inside walls and black spray paint / black rust-oleum leak seal to keep light proof (exept bottom) may keeplight in and allow tiny lower leaves to grow.
if not either way, add a small spiral up the tube with strips of water proof LEDs from ebay. each section can get it's own sepreate strip. the wires fed through holes out of the chambers and then resealed with gooped over melted plastic, silicon, glue, or something
easier to read, brief picture instruction sheet
easier to read, brief picture instruction sheet
idea is
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=308471&page=17
post #247,
Ganja Outlaws
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=308471&page=15
#216,
FaX!
post #217,
Ganja Outlaws
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=192717&page=3
post #34,
Dropped Cat. micro LST Zamaldelica
the leaves may be able to be supported up against the walls by resting on them and the fan upwards draft.
retroreflective micronized pigment attached by super glue to the inside walls and black spray paint / black rust-oleum leak seal to keep light proof (exept bottom) may keeplight in and allow tiny lower leaves to grow.
if not either way, add a small spiral up the tube with strips of water proof LEDs from ebay. each section can get it's own sepreate strip. the wires fed through holes out of the chambers and then resealed with gooped over melted plastic, silicon, glue, or something
Attachments
earthwyrms
Active member
i've just been using the skill set life gave me and what i've learned here
never thought it'd get me anywhere
Waldgeist
Active member
New Note 20
#254, i meant trichoderma
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trichoderma
root helping fungi.
Dropped Cat, i am wondering if your Zamaldelica in yogurt cup can be done inside of greek yogurt containers soldered ends to ends to make `1ft tall chamber with a 10w LED chip at the top.
with a small enclosure and light containment and the ability to pull off the top to LST, it may be really economical for the yogurt cup challenge.
*if you take the 4 cup containers
tak two together top to top (open to open) by slowly tacking in the rims, keeping them even, going around
*then take two more, and making sure to have them alighned (maybe a hole in the center), use the soldering iron to melt through both layers where the bottoms meet, avoid the smoke/be outside and/or well ventilated and cut a circle, keeping as close to the rim as possible, to minimize lip (and light loss).
*one side of this will fit snuggly over the first piece formed.
*tack weld
(i meant to say continually tak in the side lips at a 90 degree angle, sufficient that it melts and merges the two layers, and move machine like fashion, along the perimeter. it will look like little lines pointing upwards after unless smeared)
one more container top to top of one side of the second piece.
this way, when it is fit snug on the first piece made, this new second piece (having three pieces) will have a top that is narrow/the bottom of a container.
*now take one more container and weld it bottom onto the bottom at the top. take another one and remove the bottom and set that into the one on the top. these two settled together can be trimmed at any height, the ease of doing the next step can be done by starting the weld from the bottom.
*get an ovaltine container, take the top off, take the solder tool and keeping the smoke away from your eyes (goggles) and nose if possible, do the same melt in and carve out of a circle with the rim barely there.
*now if one takes off the top, they can see to the bottom of the chamber.
*cut the bottom off the original container.
*take a 2 liter soda bottle with straight sides and cut off the top right before it starts to narrow.
* fit this over the bottom of the contraption. this can hold soil and the top part can be removed.
*the idea for the LED 10W COB is one of the full spectrum ones, mounted on a heatsink.
*the idea for the heatsink it to cool it with the draft from the scrubber fans above it.
*the idea is to fit the heatsinked LED into the bottom of the inverted cup area. the area itself is carved out and the led is held there by holding or wedging the heatsink somehow. the power wires are fed out an appropriate hole and sealed. the ovaltine container is fitted with a porous filter and coco carbon. two 80mm fans are glued/stacked together on top of the ovaltine top (80mm, also a small size JIF peanut butter container top has an 80mm top that fits well on the ovaltine top and can maybe be tightened better). the top is cored out prior.
*keeping the top from unscrewing is something i am unsure about (i think the fans spin counter clockwise so the torque should keep them tight) as well as standing the thing up straight (i'm sure it is not to difficult to keep it in place).
*some sort of inlet system or hole should be made in the two liter bottom, towards it's top.
if making three holes and wanting same inlet area, use 46-47mm holes.
((((pi40sqrd)/3)/pi)sqrroot)times two<< lookimg at that, i realized the pi can be left out, so just radius squared then divide by three then square root that thats the radius, then times that by two. its got a 23.09401077 which times two is 46.18802154 so i wrote 46-47mm. also the fans all have circles where the motors are so those areas should seemingly be removed from the air opening calculations in theory, but being that they are powered fans the inlet hole size is probably a function of their operaring specifications. i figure two Noctua NF-A8 fans have superb Static pressure and alright airflow (all while being super quit 17,7 dB(A), which is under the sound of rustling leaves according to here http://www.noisehelp.com/noise-level-chart.html)
noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=100&lng=en&set=1
i figure that kind of airflow and pressure is enough to pull enough air to cool the heatsink, power the scrubber, and exchange air for the plant. i don't know yet.
Dropped Cat, i got the idea when i saw your Zamaldelica in a yogurt cup and the LSTing (training {i had to learn what that meant somewhere once})
that you had done on it and i don't know if 10W is enough but i hacked part of this together (i mentioned measure the centering of the welds above...because i was a little off and after making a hole and patching a hole and....it is supremely sloppy and you can do better probably if you make sure it is measured twice and soldered once
i think this may work because 10W probably is not too hot, can be heatsunk well enough and if it is the full spectrum led COB, and contained, it may pack enough energy to grow a mini plant, a sativa Zamdelica, really efficiently.
a plus could be also for micro (or nano) breeding or isolation and if one is male, it is already contained. theoretically one can make a fleet of pods like this and manage them easily.
there are these micronized retro reflective particles for use in reflective clothing and painting and stuff on ebay. if the inside of these containers is already white, and given a coat of super glue spray or something and then these tiny particles are sprayed or shaken or somehow without getting them everywhere or inhaling them, gotten on the wall to set, and the outside is spray painted black while all fitted together (maybe with quick seal from Rust-Oleumwhick would maybe give it a good seal that can be recut with a razor blade) then it may be super awesome.
looking at the thing i cobbled together so far, i am reminded of a rocket ship and i like thinking about space travel (like actual space travel. and also getting high space travel too
i hope this helps alot
i error proofed, if i goofed please let me know
i have a bet goin, need to use a 2liter ice tea tetrapack as growing chamber, ...
whens the next round?
ena big up for this harvest again, the pics are porn as usual
Ganja_Outlaws
Active member
any more questions?
FaX!
Best Magic Moment!
I put in this thread my smoke report after or before 9/november/2015?
And if will be after this day When is the ultimate date?
Sorry but i translate all whit google translator.
FaX!
Best Magic Moment!
explosive!
Ganja_Outlaws
Active member
Great job to everyone that finished their cups. Wish I could have a sample of each one lol. Eighths-n-Aces really blew it up once again, insane job man. 2-2 and a half ounces if quite nice. In-between 2 1000w lights correct? I forgot so much has happened in the past.
Only question is on that photo where you show the base of your plant stem the soil/medium looks completely molded black on top and the base of the stem is deep green. Have any clue why that happened or has it happened in the pasted? Was it only during yogi cups it happened? Just wondering, got into my mind and couldn't figure out why. Thanks man.
Update on my cups. Second day of flowering as I had to flip the tent. Hopefully next time I will be more prepared for the time frame of the contest. They are all receiving max doses of Advanced Nutrients with pure RO water 30 mins right before lights out. Only using A & B Ph Perfect coco, Carbo Load and Bud Ignite at the moment.
Bubba Kush x Hash Plant
Double Black
BogBubble
GTH #1 clone
White Widow
Only question is on that photo where you show the base of your plant stem the soil/medium looks completely molded black on top and the base of the stem is deep green. Have any clue why that happened or has it happened in the pasted? Was it only during yogi cups it happened? Just wondering, got into my mind and couldn't figure out why. Thanks man.
Update on my cups. Second day of flowering as I had to flip the tent. Hopefully next time I will be more prepared for the time frame of the contest. They are all receiving max doses of Advanced Nutrients with pure RO water 30 mins right before lights out. Only using A & B Ph Perfect coco, Carbo Load and Bud Ignite at the moment.
Bubba Kush x Hash Plant
Double Black
BogBubble
GTH #1 clone
White Widow
you're going to have to tell me exactly which pic you're asking me about Dr. but i think you are seeing the layer of algae thats growing on top of the media and on the stem where it contacts the media.
that's the stuff that made me think that the roots had started to rot below the surface because it looks so dead. it's was so dark green that it looked black
Ganja_Outlaws
Active member
you two are kicking ass at this challenge. ill deff be watching these ones.
earthwyrms
Active member
that is odd, it looks like the algae permeated the stem in the side slice picture and is inside the plant.
i did not know algae did that (i also did not know about algae till you said that and i looked it up, it looks like that around the rim is algae. learning, still weird though)
i did not know algae did that (i also did not know about algae till you said that and i looked it up, it looks like that around the rim is algae. learning, still weird though)
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