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Tips for first guerrilla grow?

Airo

New member
Hey guys, hope you're all having a decent start to the new year.

I'm planning on doing my first "guerrilla grow" this season and would appreciate some input on what I should keep in mind to avoid making rookie mistakes. I'm leaning towards putting the seeds straight into the native soil, as I won't be able to provide any artificial light.

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks.
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Welcome friend, now is a good time to get your plots ready for the spring. I like to add organic matter from the woods. I take the top layers of decomposed leaf mold topsoil from under the tree canopy using 5-gallon buckets. I add the topsoil to the growing areas and build up the microbe population. Make sure the grow areas are in full sun. Add at least 5 to 10 buckets to the plots.

Planting seeds outdoors is very unlikely to grow because of harsh growing conditions. It's best to sprout your seed plants in dixie cups in late Winter indoors and when the last frost is over move the plants outdoors in the amended plots.

IMG_0594.JPG
 

Airo

New member
Thank you! I'll absolutely keep this in mind.

Noted about starting them indoors. But as mentioned, I'll unfortunately not be able to provide any artificial light setup for them. Would it work to start them off as window plants? Or is that also doomed to fail?
 

DandAbc

Active member
There are windowsill grows, but to keep a photoperiod plant in the best shape (veg) a certain number of dark hours are needed. Different plants will flower with different hours of darkness.

I have no idea how many hours of darkness you have outside. Even a desk lamp light can keep dark hours lower. I'd think that keeping dark hours to 8 would be fine with most strains - early, auto and whatever else excluded.

For small plants you'll grow on the windowsill even Christmas lights could keep them in veg. Maybe you can pick up battery operated ones on sale now?
 

Airo

New member
There are windowsill grows, but to keep a photoperiod plant in the best shape (veg) a certain number of dark hours are needed. Different plants will flower with different hours of darkness.

I have no idea how many hours of darkness you have outside. Even a desk lamp light can keep dark hours lower. I'd think that keeping dark hours to 8 would be fine with most strains - early, auto and whatever else excluded.

For small plants you'll grow on the windowsill even Christmas lights could keep them in veg. Maybe you can pick up battery operated ones on sale now?
I appreciate this, thanks. It definitely gave me something to think about, as I hadn't really thought about those kind of "low-tech solutions" before. I've really been stuck in my fear that the lack of a structured environment would mess everything up from the start.
 

Asentrouw

Well-known member
Some things I learned from my own experience (but still have a lot to learn about guerilla growing 😅):

Make sure you have the right outdoor strains suited for your lat and climate, that are harsh and don't need much care. Also if possible use seed instead of clones, because these are rooted better into the ground and withstand bad weather better.

Look for spots with good soil or make sure to amment the soil (basically means a lot of dragging around with bags, fertilizers, which can be a liability). Usually certain plants (like stinging nettles) give away the kind of soil which is well suited for cannabis. Clear the ground from competing vegitation. You might want to take procautions against bugs and wildlife (copper, wirefence, anti-snail granules/traps, garlic, etc.). It makes things easier if you have water nearby or if you create a pit for this (plastic in a hole + bucket), so you don't have to cary it with you every time.

Just start your strains in a cheap plastic greenhouse (the non-transparant ones) in the backyard or something, so the plants are big enough to withstand bugs and bad weather, before you plant them out on the spot (say 20-30 cm big). The first few weeks as seedlings they do need a little extra care, big chance they don't survive on the spot (if nothing else is possible and the spot is easy accesable, try pots on a table or something).

I prefer a outdoor greenhouse over pre-growing indoors. The season is long enough to grow beasts. No need to start too early or indoors, this can cause all kind of problems and does not guarentee a bigger harvest. If you do go indoors, grow the right lighthours compared to the lighthours outside before planting out. Else this can mess up the plant and cause it to reveg.

Also make sure you don't plant them out too early, especially with the very photosensitive strains (semi-auto's, etc. - these can also reveg if planted early, which is catastrophal for your harvest).

Don't start to early! The relatively cold weather and low sunhours in the early season, can also cause the plant to stress and growth to stagnate, which basically means it can be outgrown by a plant that is sown a bit later, when the weather is improved (usually haldway May in the northern hemisphere). So I don't see much use in starting before that time.

In the end it's mostly a matter of finding the right spot, the right workhorse strain and a whole lot of luck. 😉
 
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ost

Well-known member
Welcome friend, now is a good time to get your plots ready for the spring. I like to add organic matter from the woods. I take the top layers of decomposed leaf mold topsoil from under the tree canopy using 5-gallon buckets. I add the topsoil to the growing areas and build up the microbe population. Make sure the grow areas are in full sun. Add at least 5 to 10 buckets to the plots.

Planting seeds outdoors is very unlikely to grow because of harsh growing conditions. It's best to sprout your seed plants in dixie cups in late Winter indoors and when the last frost is over move the plants outdoors in the amended plots.

View attachment 18941105
very good setup
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
If you plan on starting your seeds at your plot you will need to prepare the spot well before you plan on planting.

Dig all enough holes (12''x12'') to match your seeds. Cover each hole with native mulch material. This allows the local fauna dig in the holes and figure out there is nothing they want.

When you come back in a couple of weeks to plant your seeds. Soak them overnight in labeled ziplock bags. Also bring a small bag of seed starter soil. Dig out a solo cup size hole in each of the pre-dug holes and put the (moistened )seed starter in them . Add a seed or two in each hole and if possible cover them with a 20oz bottle with the bottom cut out and the cap off (Miniature greenhouse).

Make sure to put a cage around each hole/bottle.

Check out the outdoor forum there are many recorded guerrilla grows. May have to go back in time a bit because its been legal in many places for a while now.


Good Luck

Screen Shot 2024-01-02 at 7.18.47 PM.png
 

Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Thank you! I'll absolutely keep this in mind.

Noted about starting them indoors. But as mentioned, I'll unfortunately not be able to provide any artificial light setup for them. Would it work to start them off as window plants? Or is that also doomed to fail?
Yes, windows are better than nothing, make sure it's a Sunny window.
 

dilettante

Active member
All good advice so far. Especially on starting seeds in the spot. Thank you hamstring. I'll try your tec this year. (But I will still start the few store bought seed early indoors and plant out very early, as in my location mid May is sometimes the start of a 6 weeks long drought and I had good success with plants having a chance to establish themselves before that.)

I would just add one thing:

Plant a lot more than you think you need or want.

Good luck and have fun. You need enough sun, suitable varieties, fertility, water holding capacity and security. Plant and spot numbers will help you learn to judge the abovementioned parameters.
 

Old Piney

Well-known member
All good advice here but I will add or reiterate a little .I'm with Asentrow a small cold frame of green house is the way to go for a little bit of a early start and yes there is plenty of growing season no need to start inside .Even just on a table or something outside in full sun is fine after last frost. The main reason you don't want to plant directly in the ground is cut worms .These little bastards will cut your seedling off right at ground level, you don't even want your starts in pots on the ground because of them. Once your plant have 2 or three sets of leaves ,cut worms , slugs or snails won't kill them .You should be safe to plant in the ground with a small metal fence to keep bunnies and other varmints away good luck and have fun

 

engine

Member
Don't take the most expensive seeds for the first time!
Use seeds which were breeded for outdoor growing. These strains tend to have smaller buds, which prevents mold.
 

Mithridate

Well-known member
Guerilla eh?

Don't monocrop, diversity will better your chance to see an harvest

Plan for water

Mulching is your friend

Plant at least twice as many as you want to harvest (old formula is lose 25% to environment, 25% to pests and critters, 25% to thieves)

Water crystals can make the difference on a dry year

Osmocote is your friend

Lift with your legs 😉

Floods happen

I don't top, some do

If their way tall and flexible, bury them sideways

Don't be lazy

Best of luck 👍
 
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albertgriffiths

Active member
Don't forget the most important part is to find the right location.
And to avoid getting your plants stolen in the end.

Try to find 2 different ways of going to the spot, so you can avoid "marking" the trail too much. Plus you'll have an "escape" if needed.
Don't go see your plants too often when they don't need it (= growth and early flower).
Just water when it's not raining, and in late flower go a bit more often to check for bud rot and have fun looking at them.

Choose not-too-smelly strains. Nepal Jam, Serious 6, Friesland or Northern Lights hybrids are good in that regard. Smell will get you stolen. Avoid skunks, cheese, chem, etc.
If you can select 2 strains, try to choose 1 that finishes early, and a later one that is known for being resistant to bud rot/mildew. The earlier one is not always going to be the more resistant: it depends on this year's climate.

Prepare your soil a few weeks before planting (doing the most suspicious thing/carrying big tools before having any plant there). Keep the soil well aired, do not step too close to where you'll be planting. Figure out if you need to add compost/peat/sand/clay/whatever. Compost is never a bad idea.

For a first time (guessing northern hemisphere), start your seedlings in may, plant in june when they have at least 4 sets of leaves.
Then you'll start them earlier next year when you gain confidence/knowledge.

Good luck, and have fun!
 

Old Piney

Well-known member
Another reason to prepare the soil a few weeks ahead, is so curious critters like raccoons and skunks don't dig your plants up
 

Airo

New member
Really appreciate everyone chiming in. I would've definitely fell in some rookie traps without your input!

Site is already picked out and I'm going to prepare it the best I can, while also taking the advice to start a little later in the season. I'm slightly nervous that I'll waste seeds and this years opportunity, but mostly excited! :)

I'll probably document some of the process.
 

oldmaninbc

Well-known member
Speaking as a seasoned outdoor grower there is valuable information provided by members on this thread.

It can take several crops to get it all down pat. Each growing location can have it's own assortment of problems and benefits. Not sure how much you plan on growing and the legalities of your grow but transporting your finished product at harvest needs to be thought out. If your growing in an area that has hunting, this can have a few problems; theft of your plants, so grow a strain that finishes before hunting season, game wardens will catch you either at the location or at traffic stops.
I found wildlife can cause lots of problems, a mouse will girdle a large plant. I have had bears, deer, mountain sheep, beavers and cattle have harmed or destroyed plants & patches.
Always observe your plants closely for issues like pests, and mold. Most of all enjoy the experience of producing an outdoor harvest. It is exciting.
 

Mr Jay

Well-known member
Veteran
Definitely try something this year, but summer is the most important time to scout out new grow sites. If you're scouting sites throughout the summer, you can see what conditions will be like through your grow. This will give you a general idea of how often and how much you will need to water, and if the plant life in the area will die back in the heat exposing your plants.

For example: 12 years ago I scouted out a spot on a flood plain by the columbia river. Throughout the summer I dug holes down in several places until I hit ground water, being in a flood plain this was only a couple of feet down. Throughout the summer I returned to check the water levels and see how it worked out. In most of the spots the water dropped low enough the plants would not be able to access it, but in one particularly large thicket of blackberries the water stayed at an accessible level throughout the summer and early fall. Late the next spring when the flood danger had passed I returned to the spot and amended a bed in the middle of the thicket with some compost and organic dry ferts. I returned in early June and planted several plants there, then left and did not return until around harvest time in the fall. By selecting an area in the middle of a 12 foot tall blackberry thicket the plants were protected from sight and accidental discovery thanks to thousands of thorns. Since the plants were drawing water from the high water table and not being watered, I never had to return and create an obvious path back to the plants. It only takes a few trips to create a very obvious path, and humans are naturally curious. It worked out in the end and I had more bud than I needed for the year.
 
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