Seedlings veg flower par meter
- Thread starter trixP
- Start date
Good question. Someone may have the answer.
trixP
Active member
Forgot to mention I have fresh air from outside of hen flowering could I bump it up higher or is that still not enough co2….. then again I’m burning what’s for nothing !?!
Anyway my seedling tray will be in my veg tent as I don’t have propegation set up or
Light
When referring to these light numbers they are ppfd or par numbers …… oldtimrr noobie over here thanks
Anyway my seedling tray will be in my veg tent as I don’t have propegation set up or
Light
When referring to these light numbers they are ppfd or par numbers …… oldtimrr noobie over here thanks
Kimes
Well-known member
I have understood it depends a bit on the light you use.
If I understood it right this is an indoor grow right?
Found my old notes for Sanlight Evo LED:
Photoperiods
1st week:
200 PAR clones max rh 70% daytime 26-28c (79F) night 24c (75F)
250 PAR seedlings (same RH etc as above)
2nd week -->
500 PAR (RH etc same as above)
Flowering:
1-3 weeks 600 PAR 12h RH 60% daytemps 79F night temps 71,6F
4 weeks onwards 800-900 PAR 12h / DLI 39 (can be higher depending on genes), RH 50% 79F day temps night temps 64,5F
defoliation (from sanlight site i think)
If a (lower) leaf gets under 150 PAR plant will drop it eventually, and if a lower leaf gets less than 300 PAR it consumes more sugars than it produces -> remove it
Same applies to autos but 5-600 PAR in flowering (18h) (can go higher depending on genes)
Not sure if this helps
If I understood it right this is an indoor grow right?
Found my old notes for Sanlight Evo LED:
Photoperiods
1st week:
200 PAR clones max rh 70% daytime 26-28c (79F) night 24c (75F)
250 PAR seedlings (same RH etc as above)
2nd week -->
500 PAR (RH etc same as above)
Flowering:
1-3 weeks 600 PAR 12h RH 60% daytemps 79F night temps 71,6F
4 weeks onwards 800-900 PAR 12h / DLI 39 (can be higher depending on genes), RH 50% 79F day temps night temps 64,5F
defoliation (from sanlight site i think)
If a (lower) leaf gets under 150 PAR plant will drop it eventually, and if a lower leaf gets less than 300 PAR it consumes more sugars than it produces -> remove it
Same applies to autos but 5-600 PAR in flowering (18h) (can go higher depending on genes)
Not sure if this helps
SuperFarang
Member
observing your plants will tell you more than a meter
it is pretty useless indoor
you must dial your setup depending on the light you're using and other variables
Ideally your light must be positioned at a certain height at the beginning of the grow and never be moved
If you grow from seeds and underestimate the stretch on some phenos you can exceptionally raise it a little
No lamp has perfect homogeneity in distribution
To optimize the uptake of light, the tallest plants must go in the less lit places
It's usually the tallest plants on the side and the smallest directly under the lamp
If well dialed your plants must be praying 24h/24 and have a perfect color, and no defects on the leaves
And stay like this until harvest
Also if you got several lights in a room, it is obvious they must not be all lit at the same time during veg
Thats what we call experience .. and no meter can give you this
Obervation .. constant rectification .. until perfection
And Don't worry .. I also got fooled by the industry when I bought a rootzone moisture sensor ... now it's collection the dust in its box
it is pretty useless indoor
you must dial your setup depending on the light you're using and other variables
Ideally your light must be positioned at a certain height at the beginning of the grow and never be moved
If you grow from seeds and underestimate the stretch on some phenos you can exceptionally raise it a little
No lamp has perfect homogeneity in distribution
To optimize the uptake of light, the tallest plants must go in the less lit places
It's usually the tallest plants on the side and the smallest directly under the lamp
If well dialed your plants must be praying 24h/24 and have a perfect color, and no defects on the leaves
And stay like this until harvest
Also if you got several lights in a room, it is obvious they must not be all lit at the same time during veg
Thats what we call experience .. and no meter can give you this
Obervation .. constant rectification .. until perfection
And Don't worry .. I also got fooled by the industry when I bought a rootzone moisture sensor ... now it's collection the dust in its box
growslow
New member
I am no expert but 450-550 seems about right for veg, 800-900 in Flower seems high without Co2. In my experience to much photosynthesis causes real bad bud quality and makes it less everything and not even suitable for edibles. If I understand correctly you need 800 ppm of Co2 to metabolize 800 par. I use Co2 in both Veg and Flower so I am probably not the best to give advice on this but hopefully this information helps and someone smarter than me chimes in.
This appears reputable and addresses some of your concerns
Stay Frosty
Attachments
