Oldtimers Haze Soil Recipe Anyone?

I was hoping the boys at ace or one of our resident sativa experts could recommend a good soil mix for the ot haze i have a pack of 3fx6m i'm getting set up to do indoors and as i never had a plant that went 23 weeks i thought maybe the knowedge base here has some helpful advice on what soil mix is good for looong flowering sativas and any thing else you guys wanna throw in there that might be useful to know

planning on starting them into flower at about a 12 inches im looking to have between 6-7ft trees when finished am i right that they well stretch that much and will a 5 gal bucket be big enough to keep them from getting root bound

im no stranger to sativas but this seems to be in a bit different class so i want to make sure i do it right as i will be making seeds

thanks in advance to everyone

CannaDestroyer said:

I was hoping the boys at ace or one of our resident sativa experts could recommend a good soil mix for the ot haze i have a pack of 3fx6m i'm getting set up to do indoors and as i never had a plant that went 23 weeks i thought maybe the knowedge base here has some helpful advice on what soil mix is good for looong flowering sativas and any thing else you guys wanna throw in there that might be useful to know

planning on starting them into flower at about a 12 inches im looking to have between 6-7ft trees when finished am i right that they well stretch that much and will a 5 gal bucket be big enough to keep them from getting root bound

im no stranger to sativas but this seems to be in a bit different class so i want to make sure i do it right as i will be making seeds

thanks in advance to everyone

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Good day CannaDestroyer,

I dont think you'll get such stretching, oldtimer's haze line is slow to start flowering but node lenght is short/medium. A good tip we have commented previously, would be limit size pot (2 gal is enough) till they form budsites, then re pot them to final pot with plenty of good soil (3.5-5 gal with worm casting, guano in polm, etc ...).

It's easier to finish them with big pots and let them absorb naturaly nutrients from a rich soil than applying very frequently liquid fertilizers and limiting size pot till the end. Indeed, if they are planted in the grown with plenty sun, warm temps and water, they grow and grow without attentions.

so when should i start them

so when should i start them

thanks for the soil tips dubi maybe you could recommend a good height to start flowering so they end up around 6-7 ft tall keeping in mind they will be grown indoors

Look for a old article in homegrown magazine titled, 'ON THE TRAIL'. within this article lies a soil recipe called 'THE COSMIC BOOGIE' used by the guys responsible for the o haze in california. this soil recipe and the same quality sunshine should produce nice results..

CannaDestroyer said:

thanks for the soil tips dubi maybe you could recommend a good height to start flowering so they end up around 6-7 ft tall keeping in mind they will be grown indoors

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Hello CannaDestroyer,

2-3 ft would be a good height to finish 6-7 ft mature haze plants. Personaly, I dont like to grow too much big sativa clones indoors, they like to branch and sometimes it's hard to light their lower branches. I prefer to grow medium sized sativa clones indoors but it's always a personal preference.

Best wishes :smile:

jingles said:

Look for a old article in homegrown magazine titled, 'ON THE TRAIL'. within this article lies a soil recipe called 'THE COSMIC BOOGIE' used by the guys responsible for the o haze in california. this soil recipe and the same quality sunshine should produce nice results..

Click to expand...

should be interesting to know the soil mix used by haze bros, any more info ingles?

Here you go,

mmmm

bad quality pics but its the best i could do..

Thank you very much jingles for scan and upload it, it's very apreciated. :smile:

Soil mix commented in the first page is complex and balanced. Im curious about the mushroon compost, it's not easy to find around here. Dolomite is interesting to stabilize ph in soil mix.

I'm using biodymamic concepts in my gardening for past 3-5 years. The day of germination, planting, fertilizing, pest prevention, harvest, etc ... is selected depending on moon and sun position. It's real beautiful and provides a deeper understanding of life reactions and plant cycles.

This is the Haze Bros soil formula not Oldtimer's. The people from Homegrown came to Santa Cruz and interviewed me for the article, I gave them the soil formula. They never met the Haze Bros.
BTW, be careful about using redwood sawdust it sucks nitrogen until fully composted with a nitrogen source like rabbit shit.

-SamS

Sam_Skunkman said:

This is the Haze Bros soil formula not Oldtimer's. The people from Homegrown came to Santa Cruz and interviewed me for the article, I gave them the soil formula. They never met the Haze Bros.
BTW, be careful about using redwood sawdust it sucks nitrogen until fully composted with a nitrogen source like rabbit shit.

-SamS

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Welcome Sam,

Thanks a lot for share the old haze soil mix. Most of the components commented in the soil mix are not easy to find in my country or zone, but i'd like to replicate it here for a few haze outdoors plants this season.

Animal shits and all strong sources of macronutrients must be correctly composted before its use, or they can easily burn young plants.

I normally start to mix my soil at the end of the year and let it sit until next spring. If I use sawdust or plant wastes I make sure the pile starts pretty hot to get the carbon/nitrogen ratio corrected and be sure there is no un-composted sawdust etc. left by the time I use the pile. I add the more soluble ingredients in the spring before using.

The formula was for the area of Santa Cruz where all the ingredients were freely available with a little hunting for them.

-SamS

Interesting tips, thx for the link Jungles and for comments Sam. Always found the best with sativas was some organic soils with loosy texture, plenty of sun and pure air.

Also they use to love wormcastings to veg and some high phosforus guano and kelpt at flowering which brings flavours to the top.

saludos

Cool posts

I believe that nature is the best teacher, meaning that if we study the particular regions that cannabis thrives in, where natural landraces grow and also study the regions where we think cannabis originates from, we can get a rough idea of what is the ideal soil.

I also strongly believe in the loose texture and good drainage, having all sorts of organic and inorganic matter in the soil mix. For example lava rocks or wood chips and stuff like that really help the soil to be well drained and aerated. I also believe that plastic pots are a very bad container to grow plants in. By not having organic or inorganic matter to help retain the loose texture of the soil, it becomes anaerobic after 3-4 waterings ( compact soil ) .

Having said that , my humble opinion is that there is no "perfect" soil as most plants are very adaptable to different environments ( and soil textures ) and as long as they get the food they need they will just grow fine. But I have been studying the different soil textures in particular regions in my country where the plants thrive.

They all have the similarities, for example they are all rich in NPK and macronutrients . I have also noted that many have much topsoil , where the most organic matters and microorganisms are. *Very live soil* and you can immediately tell it from the looks or if u make a hole with your hand. Afterall the most fertile soil is the top soil.

What I noted about these regions are that they mostly grow olives and grapes and citrus fruits but sometimes tobacco too. I honestly don't know all the feed/soil similarities between those plants but what I do know is that a kilo per plant if planted during march, is very common in these regions. I also believe that mediteranean soil , generally, is very good and one of the many reasons for this, is the underground streams ( springs with dissolved minerals etc ) .

I checked the scanned pages and as dubi said we dont really use those sources as fertilizers here in the south europe, as far as I am concerned. I noticed the end result would give a soil very rich in nitrogen and also iron, but not really 'rich' in phosphorus ( the redsaw dust would give even more iron right ? ). My sativas kinda hate nitrogen but they love phosphorus and potassium and from what I know MJ doesnt require that much iron.

Just my humble opinion...

Have phun,l33t

Sam_Skunkman said:

I normally start to mix my soil at the end of the year and let it sit until next spring. If I use sawdust or plant wastes I make sure the pile starts pretty hot to get the carbon/nitrogen ratio corrected and be sure there is no un-composted sawdust etc. left by the time I use the pile. I add the more soluble ingredients in the spring before using.

The formula was for the area of Santa Cruz where all the ingredients were freely available with a little hunting for them.

-SamS

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High Sam,

Im glad to hear you work on your own high quality compost. It's good to let compost sit a few months from autumn to spring. Compost pile needs more than 2 months to active benefitial bacteria flora. It's good to move the pile and frequently add some water to keep pile with a certain humid. Using byodinamic concepts, the 2 week descending moon period is the best moment to work on compost and soil preparation.

It's important to differenciate the ascending/descending moon cycle and the full moon/new moon cycle, they are completly different.

Here are some interesting concepts based on byodinamic gardening:

Ascending & Descending: Caused by the angle at which the moon orbits the earth relative to the Equator. As the moon ascends, it seems to climb higher in the sky each night, until it reaches its highest point. Then it descends until it reaches its lowest point, when it appears that the moon is barely floating above the horizon. The sun also has this rhythm, which creates the seasons - the summer solstice is the sun’s highest point and the winter solstice is the lowest. However, the moon takes less than a month to complete the cycle, while the sun takes a whole year.


When the moon is ascending in the night sky, the turgor of the plant sap is intensified in the upper part of the plant. The life forces are streaming upwards, as happens during the spring and summer. During the descending period, the life forces are streaming downward into the roots, as happens in fall and winter.

Ascending periods are good times to harvest most crops, make hay, and cut scions for grafting.

Descending periods are a good time to harvest root crops, cultivate, transplant, apply manure, root cuttings, make compost, and prune trees. May also be good for planting if primary goal is good root development.

Apogee & Perigee: Caused by the moon’s elliptical, as opposed to circular, orbit around the earth. Apogee is the point at which moon the closest to the earth in its monthly orbit, while perigee is the point at which the moon is the farthest from the earth.

Apogee creates a summer influence which draws plant growth away from the earth, possibly resulting in legginess or bolting. Perigee evokes a winter-like atmosphere, conducive to fungal diseases & pests.
Avoid working with plants or soil before and after perigee.

Apogee is a bad time to plant root or leaf crops, except potatoes, which grow well when planted then.

Nodes. Occur when the paths of the sun, planets and moon intersect. This happens at least twice a month as the moon alternately moves higher and lower in the sky, creating the ascending and descending nodes. An eclipse is a form of node in which the sun and moon actually coincide when their paths cross, and seldom happens.

Avoid working with plants or soil on the days of a node or eclipse. The exact times vary, but in general the effects of a node extend two hours before and after, while the effects of an eclipse last from 12 hours before to 6 hours afterwards.
Occultations. Occur when a planet’s path crosses that of another planet or the moon. This is similar to the node between the moon and sun.

Avoid working with plants or soil 12 hours before and 6 hours after an occultation.

charlie garcia said:

Interesting tips, thx for the link Jungles and for comments Sam. Always found the best with sativas was some organic soils with loosy texture, plenty of sun and pure air.

Also they use to love wormcastings to veg and some high phosforus guano and kelpt at flowering which brings flavours to the top.

saludos

Click to expand...

Sure charlie :smile: Worm casting and composted chicken shit are among best soil components for veg, worm casting is specially nice to veg tropical sativas, it provides a slow but rich N source, perfect for that kind of tropical cannabis plants. Guano is lovely for flowering and aromas.

l33t said:

Cool posts

My sativas kinda hate nitrogen but they love phosphorus and potassium and from what I know MJ doesnt require that much iron.

Just my humble opinion...

Have phun,l33t

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Hiya friend,

I like to feed tropical sats at half N strenght than hybrids and indicas. As you said, N excess would produce leaf curl and too much stretching, SE asian sats are quite sensible to N excesses in small pots.

Hiya Dubi,

Thanks very much for the input.
As far as N leaf curl goes I d like to add that I find it depends on what source you use. I know a rich organic compost is better than liquid fertilizers but sometimes I really prefer liquid ferts as they are more practical and more easily accessible as well as give me more control when I grow in pots. What I wanted to say is that for instance when I use liquid Fish derived organic ferts , they seem to cause the leaf curl you mentioned , while when I use ferts from other sources with the same NPK content some sativas dont seem to show that curling.

Good evening l33t,

There are a few growing/ambiental factors that induce leaf curl on tropical sats. N excess is one of them, lack of light intensity indoors is a typical one, plant dehydration or an excessive dry ambient is another one too ...

Hi Dubi

I agree 100% with you.

When this leaf curl happens and the the small curled leaves of the flowers are darker shade of green I usually 'cure' it by adding more light , increasing humidity and if needed a good flush.Though flushing usually has as result some yellowing to appear with the older leaves and the affected/curled leaves show little recovery , so I avoid it if I can , if I m in flowering usually a strong dose of N-less fert (PK only) helps as it forces the excessive stored N in the curled leaves to be used faster for flower/leaf production, similarity to adding more light in a sense.

wow glad to see some people are looking at this

wow glad to see some people are looking at this

good thoughts from everyone though now im thinking does anyone know what oldtimers recipe is, or perhaps sam could chime in and tell us what he's using these days for his hazes. in any case lets keep the thoughts rolling