northcoastmed
Member
Note: This DIY project is an edited conglomeration of several OG posts. Majority of the credit goes to Flyer. Remember Safety First!
Switchable HPS/MH Ballasts:
These ballasts allow the use of both HPS and MH bulbs. They operate by simply switching the HPS igniter out of the circuit. Generally, the switchable ballast consists of an HPS ballast with a switchable igniter. When an HPS bulb is used, the igniter is switched into the circuit. When an MH bulb is used, the igniter is switched off or out of the circuit. Although switchable ballast technology is simple, the user should exercise extreme caution because of the different voltages that HPS and MH bulbs operate on.
Safety First:
I do not recommend the use of simple, home-brewed and simple switchable ballasts that only take the HPS igniter out of circuit when in MH mode. Some readers may have the inclination to “make” switchable ballasts using a 1,000 watt HPS ballast core. Remember, HPS and MH bulbs have different operating voltages and electrical characteristics, this makes them incompatible with the idea of a simple switchable ballast. On certain occasions the MH bulbs have been known to rupture and explode. Although you may know someone who has successfully deployed simple switchable 1,000-watt ballast, the stress that this system places on the MH bulb can cause rapid breakdown, bulb integrity failure and fire. If you must use a single ballast for powering both MH and HPS bulbs, choose an HPS ballast with HPS main lights (Bloom/Flower) and purchase a few MH conversion bulbs to cover your vegetative cycle. Additionally with the new CFL and HPS balanced spectrum technology, there is a reduced requirement for MH lights if the vegetative cycle is short, i.e. in sea-of-green applications.
1. When you plug it back in to test it do it outside in an open area and have a way to cut power to it as well as a fire extinguisher handy. MH and HPS bulbs (in this case MH since we are converting from HPS to MH) CAN blow and CAN start a fire, even when brand new or in perfect working order.
2. Point the light away from you when you turn it on, that way if it blows you are not going to get hit with anything.
3. After you have the light on and working, run it for about an hour and listen to it. If the light or ballast starts making a buzzing sound shut it off, something is wrong and the buzzing is the transformer having problems.
Converting an HPS Ballast into a Switchable MH/HPS Ballast
============================================
Please note - this can only be done with an HPS Ballast. If you are not comfortable with basic electrical work and concepts then I do not recommend you do this. Please take appropriate precautions when doing this type of work and when testing your results.
HPS and MH Lights both use the same Autotransformer Ballasts, the only difference between the two lights, is the addition of an "Igniter" module to the HPS, to actually start the HPS bulb. Because of this you can easily and safely convert your HPS light to a Switchable light.
This takes about 30 minutes to do. You will need the following:
1. Pair of Wire Clippers (may not be needed, depends on light manufacturer)
2. Wire Twist Nuts (2, maybe 4)
3. Dual Pole, Single Throw switch from Home Depot (optional)
4. Approx. 2 feet (depending on ballast design) of #12 copper wire
-----------------------------
Details:
In the above pictures, you will note that an HPS has 3 components, and an MH has 2. The Autotransforming Ballast and the CAP are common to both types of Light assembly. The third piece that is only present in the HPS assembly, is the Igniter module.
Coming out of the Igniter there should be 3 wires, labeled X1LAMP, X2COM and X3 or something similar. If these are not labeled as such or similar, STOP! Your light is non-standard and unless you are a certified Electrician, you should consult one before continuing.
If you trace the X1 and X2 wires back, you will see X1 goes to a 3-wire connection between the Transformer and the Light Socket, and the X2 leads to a 3-wire connection also going between the Transformer and the Light Socket. These are the two leads you want to disconnect.
There are two ways to do this:
1st way: you can make it a semi-permanent conversion from HPS to MH, if you want to switch back, you have to open up your ballast again and reconnect the X1 and X2 leads.
2nd way: install a dual pole/single throw switch in X1 and X2, and you now have an on demand, switchable ballast.
Option 1:
1.Unplug the light! I recommend it having been unplugged for several hours before working on it.
2.Disconnect the X1 and X2 wires from the 3-wire connection spots by untwisting the wire nuts.
3.Retwist the wires back together, and re-cap with the wire nut as you do this.
4.Place one (1) new wire nut on the X1 lead coming out of the igniter to cap it so it does not short. Do the same with the X2 lead coming out of the igniter.
You’re done - your ballast will now run a same wattage MH bulb. To change back, reconnect the X1 and X2 leads coming out of the igniter to the respective X1 and X2 leads you disconnected them from.
Option 2:
1. Unplug the light!
2. Find a place to mount your switch. I used a pair of tin snips to cut a small 1"x1/2" hole in mine since the metal was thin and the switch just pushed into it. I do not recommend letting the switch hang out a hole or something. This is high voltage and that is inviting disaster.
3. After you have your switch mounted, cut your spare wire into two leads long enough to run from the switch to where the 3-wire connections are. ** NOTE ** Your spare wire should be the same gauge (thickness) as the wire that is already being used in the lights wiring.
4. Strip your ends and connect one end of each wire to each side of the same pole on your dual pole switch.
5. Locate the X1 lead from the Igniter and trace it back to the 3-wire connection.
6. Remove the wire nut and untwist the X1 lead from the other 2 wires.
7. Connect the X1 Igniter lead to one of the two remaining connection points on your switch.
8. Take the wire you attached to the same side of the opposite pole on your switch, and connect the other end of it to where you just took the X1 Igniter lead from, twist all three wires together.
9. Twist the wire nut onto these 3 wires to remake the 3-wire connection.
10. Do the same process with the X2 Igniter lead.
You’re done - close everything back up and you now have switchable ballast.
**Pics to follow in the next couple of weeks once the ballast kits arrive and I get some time some time to complete the project.**
Enjoy!
NC
Switchable HPS/MH Ballasts:
These ballasts allow the use of both HPS and MH bulbs. They operate by simply switching the HPS igniter out of the circuit. Generally, the switchable ballast consists of an HPS ballast with a switchable igniter. When an HPS bulb is used, the igniter is switched into the circuit. When an MH bulb is used, the igniter is switched off or out of the circuit. Although switchable ballast technology is simple, the user should exercise extreme caution because of the different voltages that HPS and MH bulbs operate on.
Safety First:
I do not recommend the use of simple, home-brewed and simple switchable ballasts that only take the HPS igniter out of circuit when in MH mode. Some readers may have the inclination to “make” switchable ballasts using a 1,000 watt HPS ballast core. Remember, HPS and MH bulbs have different operating voltages and electrical characteristics, this makes them incompatible with the idea of a simple switchable ballast. On certain occasions the MH bulbs have been known to rupture and explode. Although you may know someone who has successfully deployed simple switchable 1,000-watt ballast, the stress that this system places on the MH bulb can cause rapid breakdown, bulb integrity failure and fire. If you must use a single ballast for powering both MH and HPS bulbs, choose an HPS ballast with HPS main lights (Bloom/Flower) and purchase a few MH conversion bulbs to cover your vegetative cycle. Additionally with the new CFL and HPS balanced spectrum technology, there is a reduced requirement for MH lights if the vegetative cycle is short, i.e. in sea-of-green applications.
1. When you plug it back in to test it do it outside in an open area and have a way to cut power to it as well as a fire extinguisher handy. MH and HPS bulbs (in this case MH since we are converting from HPS to MH) CAN blow and CAN start a fire, even when brand new or in perfect working order.
2. Point the light away from you when you turn it on, that way if it blows you are not going to get hit with anything.
3. After you have the light on and working, run it for about an hour and listen to it. If the light or ballast starts making a buzzing sound shut it off, something is wrong and the buzzing is the transformer having problems.
Converting an HPS Ballast into a Switchable MH/HPS Ballast
============================================
Please note - this can only be done with an HPS Ballast. If you are not comfortable with basic electrical work and concepts then I do not recommend you do this. Please take appropriate precautions when doing this type of work and when testing your results.
HPS and MH Lights both use the same Autotransformer Ballasts, the only difference between the two lights, is the addition of an "Igniter" module to the HPS, to actually start the HPS bulb. Because of this you can easily and safely convert your HPS light to a Switchable light.
This takes about 30 minutes to do. You will need the following:
1. Pair of Wire Clippers (may not be needed, depends on light manufacturer)
2. Wire Twist Nuts (2, maybe 4)
3. Dual Pole, Single Throw switch from Home Depot (optional)
4. Approx. 2 feet (depending on ballast design) of #12 copper wire
-----------------------------
Details:
In the above pictures, you will note that an HPS has 3 components, and an MH has 2. The Autotransforming Ballast and the CAP are common to both types of Light assembly. The third piece that is only present in the HPS assembly, is the Igniter module.
Coming out of the Igniter there should be 3 wires, labeled X1LAMP, X2COM and X3 or something similar. If these are not labeled as such or similar, STOP! Your light is non-standard and unless you are a certified Electrician, you should consult one before continuing.
If you trace the X1 and X2 wires back, you will see X1 goes to a 3-wire connection between the Transformer and the Light Socket, and the X2 leads to a 3-wire connection also going between the Transformer and the Light Socket. These are the two leads you want to disconnect.
There are two ways to do this:
1st way: you can make it a semi-permanent conversion from HPS to MH, if you want to switch back, you have to open up your ballast again and reconnect the X1 and X2 leads.
2nd way: install a dual pole/single throw switch in X1 and X2, and you now have an on demand, switchable ballast.
Option 1:
1.Unplug the light! I recommend it having been unplugged for several hours before working on it.
2.Disconnect the X1 and X2 wires from the 3-wire connection spots by untwisting the wire nuts.
3.Retwist the wires back together, and re-cap with the wire nut as you do this.
4.Place one (1) new wire nut on the X1 lead coming out of the igniter to cap it so it does not short. Do the same with the X2 lead coming out of the igniter.
You’re done - your ballast will now run a same wattage MH bulb. To change back, reconnect the X1 and X2 leads coming out of the igniter to the respective X1 and X2 leads you disconnected them from.
Option 2:
1. Unplug the light!
2. Find a place to mount your switch. I used a pair of tin snips to cut a small 1"x1/2" hole in mine since the metal was thin and the switch just pushed into it. I do not recommend letting the switch hang out a hole or something. This is high voltage and that is inviting disaster.
3. After you have your switch mounted, cut your spare wire into two leads long enough to run from the switch to where the 3-wire connections are. ** NOTE ** Your spare wire should be the same gauge (thickness) as the wire that is already being used in the lights wiring.
4. Strip your ends and connect one end of each wire to each side of the same pole on your dual pole switch.
5. Locate the X1 lead from the Igniter and trace it back to the 3-wire connection.
6. Remove the wire nut and untwist the X1 lead from the other 2 wires.
7. Connect the X1 Igniter lead to one of the two remaining connection points on your switch.
8. Take the wire you attached to the same side of the opposite pole on your switch, and connect the other end of it to where you just took the X1 Igniter lead from, twist all three wires together.
9. Twist the wire nut onto these 3 wires to remake the 3-wire connection.
10. Do the same process with the X2 Igniter lead.
You’re done - close everything back up and you now have switchable ballast.
**Pics to follow in the next couple of weeks once the ballast kits arrive and I get some time some time to complete the project.**
Enjoy!
NC
