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Plants that help our plants

sophisto

Member
I came across this article and thought I would share it here wit you guys...

I know a few of you guys are already clued in to this concept but for others who are not and for those looking for more recipes, this article is a good one.

Please feel free to post your own recipes and there observed benefits...

Plants to the rescue of plants

Maybe it's because of their wine-making heritage, but the French are obsessed with fermenting various plants into special insecticidal, bactericidal, and fungicidal brews to use on...other plants. Remember the article on brewing an extract of stinging nettles in this column?



Well, the nettle is the undisputed queen of the French gardener's vegetal fermentations. But at least a score of other plants are used as well, each for a very specific purpose which apparently has been evolved by experience. Some of them--such as pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium, main photo above) you may have used for some time without realizing it. This plant would go unrecognized by most gardeners, yet it is the source of commercial organic pyrethrum, a well-known insecticide.

The exciting thing is that now, scientists in France are beginning to evaluate these concoctions in a serious way, and to standardize the best practices for producing and using them. Some plants, such as garlic, are not fermented but rather used in decoction (analogous to making tea) or maceration (in oil or water).

The basic method of fermentation is simple enough, which is not to say anything goes. First you need a container made of a nonreactive material. A 50-gallon plastic garbage can works fine. You need to cover your container during fermentation, but not tightly, or it might explode! Either punch some holes in your garbage can lid or cover the can with a piece of burlap or other cloth. While you can use smaller containers, 50 gallons is an optimal homeowner-scale size that is big enough to help moderate temperature extremes during fermentation.

An unheated garage or outbuilding is a good place to conduct the fermentation, the speed of which is temperature dependent. The higher the temperature--up to a point--the faster the fermentation.

The water you use is very important. The ideal source of water is rain, being free of calcareous minerals or additives such as chlorine which can retard or stop fermentation. If you must use hard well water, add a bit of vinegar to it to lower the pH. City water should be allowed to stand several days to allow the chlorine to evaporate before you use it for your extracts.

The duration of fermentation can range from a few days to a couple of weeks. When the mixture stops bubbling when you stir or otherwise move the contents, fermentation is complete. Check your brew daily.

It is imperative that you filter your extract. Doing so stops the fermentation from going too far, and also prevents globs of stuff from plugging up your sprayer or watering can when you apply the brew. Use a very fine strainer lined with cheesecloth, an old clean teeshirt, anything short of a coffee filter or other filter paper, which filters out too much.

Store your extract in stainless steel or plastic containers in a cool place, around 40-50 degrees F being ideal. French folks like to use 5-gallon plastic wine containers, appropriately enough. While a wine cellar is also an excellent place to store your extracts, make sure to label carefully!

Once you have your made your extract or infusion, you of course need to apply it. Most often, you spray it on, just as you would a conventional pesticide or foliar fertilizer, taking care to cover the undersides of leaves. But some remedies are applied as a soil drench. This is best accomplished with a good old-fashioned watering can.

Okay, now that you know the basics, here is the roster of beneficial plants and how to use them.



Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) Perennial plant with silvery, aromatic foliage.
Action. Repellent, especially against cabbage butterflies and codling moth on apples during period of egg-laying. Fungicidal against rust on currants.
Fermented extract (2 lbs. of fresh plant material to 2.5 gallons water) Undiluted for rust on currants. Undiluted sprayed on soil to repel slugs. Diluted to 10% against codling moth and cabbage worm. Note: Do not throw detritus of fermentation on compost, as it will slow its breakdown.

Fernleaf yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Perennial plant with ferny, silvery, aromatic foliage and white flowers.
Active ingredients: pro-azulene, a volatile oil; isovalerianic and salicylic acids (salicylic acid is aspirin, which is why a tea of this plant reduces pain and fever in humans.)
Action. Promotes compost breakdown; potentiates fungicides.
Cold maceration. 1 oz. of dried flowers in 1 quart of water; macerate 24 hours. Add to fungicide treatment, such as horsetail or tansy.

Garlic (Allium sativum)
Needs no explanation, except to say that garlic is perennial if left in place.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Insecticide and fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction: chop 4 oz. peeled cloves and add to 1 quart water. Bring to boil, cover and remove from heat, infuse for one hour. Strain and use without diluting. Used as a soil drench, excellent to prevent damping off of seedlings. In oil maceration: Place 4 oz. of peeled cloves and 2 T. linseed oil in a mixer or blender and pulverize. Filter, washing the filtrate (and mixing in) 1 qt. rainwater. Store one week before using. Adding a bit of soap as a surfactant before spraying is useful. Effective against aphids and mites.
Note: This is a great use for spare garlic at the end of the winter storage season, which is beginning to sprout and taste unpalatable.



Cocklebur (Arctium lappa). Infamous biennial weed.
Active ingredients. Tanins, mucilage, resins, sulfate and potassium phosphate, calcium, and magnesium.
Action. Fungicide effective against mildew on potatoes.
Preparation. Use the whole plant before flowering. The root has the most active ingredients. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Attention: strong odor! Filter and dilute to 5% before spraying on potato foliage. Also, just pick the leaves and use them as a mulch on your potatoes.

Nasturtium (Trapaeolum majus). Flowering annual.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Fungicidal against canker on tree fruits. Insectifuge against white fly (repellent).
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 quarts of water. Boil water, add leaves, infuse like tea one hour. Use undiluted on fruit trees. Dilute to 30% to spray tomatos against mildew.



Comfreys (Symphytum officinalis, S. x uplandicum). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Allantoin, which stimulates cell multiplication. This is why allantoin is such an excellent ingredient for skin creams, especially for chapped skin.
Action.Comfrey is a powerful stimulator of all cell multiplication, e.g. growth. It stimulates microbial growth in the soil, and in compost, thus acting as an 'activator'. Comfrey stimulates seedling development as well as foliar growth.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. of fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. As a soil drench, dilute to 20%; as a foliar fertilizer and seedling fertilizer, dilute to 5%.

Spurge (Euphorbia lathyris). Hardy perennial.
Active ingredient. Euphorbone.
Action. Repels moles and voles, but must be prepared and sprayed to be effective. Having the plant on your property does not suffice.
Preparation. In fermented extract, harvest the stems and leaves; the terminals have the most active ingredient, from April to October. Caution! The milky sap of this plant causes skin irritations! Wear long-cuffed gloves to protect your hands and arms. Use 2 lbs. fresh plant material per 2.5 gals. of water. Spray around cultivated areas.

Bracken fern and male fern. (Pteridium aquilinum, Dryopteris felix-mas). Perennial plant.
Action. Insecticide and insectifuge.
Active ingredients. Gallic and acetic acids; tannin; cyanogenic heterosides; potassium; aldehydes transformed to methaldehydes after fermentation.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs of fresh leaves to 2.5 gal. of water. May be fermented simultaneously with nettle or horsetail. Dilute to 10% before spraying. Effective against some pests of potato and grape, very effective against wooly aphid. Note: bracken fern is indigenous in many areas, especially in well-drained acid soils, and is often considered invasive, as it is rhizomatous.



Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Over 250 different compounds!
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material per 2.5 gal. of water, dilute to 10% before using. For dried material, use 7 oz.
In simple infusion, use 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. of water, or 2/3 oz. of dried plant material per quart.
Note: If you live in a cool climate, your lavender will be less potent than that grown in a hot climate. Double the quantities or use dried plant material from a southern source.



English ivy (Hedera helix). Perennial vine.
Active ingredient. Heteroside which is liberated during fermentation.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against white fly, spider mites, and aphids.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. chopped leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. In observing fermentation, don't confuse the foam caused by the saponins in the leaves with the gas bubbles of fermentation. Dilute to 5% before spraying. Beekeepers in the 18th century rubbed their hands with ivy to protect themselves from bee stings. Caution! The extract is toxic and must be kept out of the reach of children. Also, many people are allergic to the sap of ivy and/or to the fine hairs on the reverse of the leaves. Wear gloves to protect yourself.

Lemon balm. (Melissa officinalis). Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredient. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, mosquitos, white fly, and ants.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray without diluting. Note: Do not use on seedling beds as it can prevent germination of seedlings.



Peppermint. (Mentha piperita) Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against aphids.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray undiluted.
In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Ferments extremely fast. Dilute to 10% before using. Note: Impedes germination so don't use on seedling beds.

Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. A cocktail of ingredients still poorly analyzed but including formic acid, as well as iron, nitrogen, and many trace minerals. Acts as an immunostimulant for plants.
Action. Strongly stimulant to both microbial and plant growth, thus a compost activator as well as fertiliser. Insectifuge and sometimes insecticide against aphids, mites, and other pests.
Preparation. Use of the whole plant before flowering. Studies have shown that including the roots adds a fungicidal action to the extract. In fermented extract (the famous purin d'ortie), 2 lbs. of fresh plant in 2.5 gal. of water, fermented for a few days only. Dilute to 20% before using as soil drench or foliar feed. Use full strength as a natural herbicide (it kills with 'fertilizer burn' because it is so rich). Soak bareroot plants for 30 minutes in the pure extract or for 12 hours in a 20% dilution before planting to stimulate rapid establishment and vigor.

The nettle reigns supreme among plants for fermentation in France. The fermented extract is sold commercially in garden centers, and clubs and associations of nettle fanatics exist throughout France. Needless to say perhaps, but wear gloves when handling nettles. It's not for nothing they're called 'stinging.'

Horsetail. (Equisetum arvense). Perennial plant and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Diverse alkaloids, nicotinic acid, silica.
Action. Insectifuge, preventive fungicide, plant tonic and growth stimulant.
Preparation. In decoction, boil 1 lb. of fresh plant with 5 qts. of water for 1 hour, allow to infuse 12 hours, filter and dilute to 20%.
In fermented extract, 1/2 lb. of dried plant in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 5% before using.
Horsetail, along with nettle and fern, form the Big Three among medicinal plants for plants, according to the French. I remember my Swiss grandmother gathering horsetail and drying it in pillowcases for use in astringent poultices.

Pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium, main photo above). Perennial.
Active ingredient. Pyrethrins.
Action. Insecticide against aphids, cabbage fly, whitefly, carrot fly, and others. Does not hurt bees.
Preparation. Harvest the flowers when open, and dry them. In infusion, use 1 oz. in 2 qts. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, use 3 oz. in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 20%. Spray after sundown or in very early morning.



Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
Perennial culinary herb.
Active ingredients. Sulfuric heteroside, glucosinolate.
Action. Fungicide against blackspot on cherries.
Preparation. In infusion, 12 oz. of fresh plant material (leaves and roots chopped) in 2 1/2 gal. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 4 oz. of chopped root in 2.5 gal. of water. Use full strength on seedlings for damping off.






Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum).
Perennial potager plant.
Active ingredients. Oxalic acid as salt of calcium.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, caterpillars, and other larvae. Repulsive to herbivores.
Preparation. In cold maceration, use 1 lb. of chopped leaves in 3 quarts of water; allow to soak 24 hours before filtering. Use full strength. This is a great way to use rhubarb leaves as you eat the stalks.




Rue (Ruta graveolens). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Tannins, heterosides, malic acid, glucosides, and others.
Action. Insecticide and repulsive.
Preparation. Harvest fresh leaves and stems before flowering. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water fermented for 10 days. Dilute to 20%. Repels mice, chipmunks, and other chewers. Spray against aphids.

Dockweed (Rumex obtusifolius). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. Have not been studied.
Action. Fungicide against canker on apples and pears.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 qts. boiling water. Filter when cool, spray full strength on cankers. Treat young trees preventatively. Spring is best time.



Soapwort Saponaria officinalis). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Saponins.
Action. Insecticide, insectifuge.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. fresh material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 10% before using.






Sage. (Salvia officinalis). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Monoterpenones, including thujone, camphor, and others, aldehydes, coumarin.
Action. Insectifuge, fungicide.
Preparation. In infusion for insectifuge, 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and use full strength. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh leaves and terminals in 2.5 gal. of water, diluted to 10%, against mildew on potatoes.

Common elderberry (Sambucus nigra). Large shrub to small tree.
Active ingredients. Sambucine.
Action. Powerful repellant; fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction, 2 lbs. of leaves soaked for 24 hours in 2.5 gal. of water, then boiled for 30 minutes. Spray undiluted against aphids, beetles, caterpillars. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. Use undiluted against shelf fungus infections on trees.



Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare). Perennial plant (invasive in sandy soils).
Active ingredients. Not studied.
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide, fungicide against rust and mildew.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Use nondiluted against cabbage fly. In infusion, 1 oz. of flowers in 1 qt. of boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted against aphids, mildew, and rust. Caution: don't throw residues on compost as tansy inhibits its breakdown.

This season, why not experiment with this new (old) dimension of organic treatments? It's not only we humans who stand to benefit from medicinal herbs. The power of plants can come to the rescue of fellow plants as well!
 

quadracer

Active member
nice good info!

I am using some of these plants already, mainly comfrey and nettle, and the plants really do love it. A lot of those other plants are growing in the yard too, so there's definitely some to add to the mix.

I've thought a lot about doing this with hemlock, since that is quite abundant around here too, but have always second doubted myself. Anyone have any additional information on hemlock?
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
funny i came across this website a few days ago and was going to post it. good stuff either way, i use plant extracts for everything here. because they are free, homemade, full of life, work amazing, 100% natural, the list keeps going on and on. ive found nothing but benefits using these anaerobic ( yes dont be afraid ) teas.
 

neongreen

Active member
Veteran
Great info, and just what I was looking for! Thanks for sharing.

One question. Presumably you can store the extracts for a while?
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
I've got 3 different 'BIM' (beneficial indigenous microbes) batches working thanks to JayKush's information on another thread. They're just about done and then I plan to ferment some plants using this method vs. using EM-1 (which is an outstanding product, i.e. no criticism there at all).

RE: nettle

How in the hell do you folks handle nettle? No way on my end! I do have some comfrey growing though and at least it doesn't sting.

neongreen - these extracts are fermented so if properly capped and stored, you should be able to store for several months if not years.

HTH
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
One question. Presumably you can store the extracts for a while?

if you plan on storing it, strain it through a t shirt or something, do not put in air tight place! when you open it could explode.

for the long term i prefer to collect the plants, dry them, and make the extracts when needed. usually i make a batch about once a month. OR just have the plants growing near you ( or you grow them ) so you can make it fresh whenever you want ( except winter for those in cold climates so dry and store up before winter)

the only draw back is these things stink when your making them. the lacto bacillus culture helps some. but does not totally get rid of the stench. once diluted and applied it goes away in no time.

How in the hell do you folks handle nettle? No way on my end! I do have some comfrey growing though and at least it doesn't sting.

haha, there are a few ways to collect the nettles.
- thick ass gloves, long sleeves, pants, a trash bag, and some pruning scissors.
- this trick i was toold to by someone, i was told this is how it was collected in europe somewhere? cut the plant at half height like topping it, do not cut the whole plant, or it wont grow back for you to get more later. cut it about a ft above the ground and only collect from healthy patches if possible. get your gloves on. grab the bottom end where to cut, with your other hand pinch right above your other hand holding it, squeeze and pull your fingers up the stem. it will take off all the leaves. do this into a bucket or a trashcan and your ready to fill with water. you can use the stems to make rope or make a extract out of them as well.

ill have more later.
 

habeeb

follow your heart
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have been making FPE thanks to jay's info but raises some question:

-smell, why not just compost it , or add dried leaf to soil before transplanting...
-safety, I'm not sure what's being brewed, and is there possibility of airborne disease like mold / fungus / yeast / bacteria ... ? I think gardening "should" be a no health risk hobby

I just wonder if making FPE are superior then adding to compost or some other form , as I believe to progress, we need to analyze the current method and think how can we improve on it. FPE's got me thinking , that's all I can add for now
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
habeeb

I'm not a microbiologist but after I looked at Jay's info and from other sources, the method of growing a 'BIM' is exactly the same process of growing 'wild yeast' (misnamed) used in sourdough bread production.

The base ingredients are definitely different (rice water for example) and the actual 'culture' is far different but the results are identical - molds, yeasts and fungus attached to the culture grow from using a simple carbohydrate which is white flour or a mixture of white flour and rye flour in the initial stages resulting in a mixture with a fairly wide range of lactobacillus, yeasts, et al.

I'd say that you're safe both for yourself as well as your garden. In fact I have one batch of 'BMI' that is made only using the (in)famous San Francisco sourdough culture that I've had for 10 years or so.

HTH

CC
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Jaykush

Any thoughts on using turmeric roots in an FPE? I got a free box (5 lbs.) from a friend in the produce business so the basic ingredients are cheap enough.

Thanks!

CC
 

neongreen

Active member
Veteran
if you plan on storing it, strain it through a t shirt or something, do not put in air tight place! when you open it could explode.

for the long term i prefer to collect the plants, dry them, and make the extracts when needed. usually i make a batch about once a month. OR just have the plants growing near you ( or you grow them ) so you can make it fresh whenever you want ( except winter for those in cold climates so dry and store up before winter)

the only draw back is these things stink when your making them. the lacto bacillus culture helps some. but does not totally get rid of the stench. once diluted and applied it goes away in no time.

Thanks jay, yeah, I remember reading that story about the exploding bottle now (although perhaps that was tea?)! Got to get the lacto going - probably in the next day or two. Ta for the tip/s.
 

sophisto

Member
I like JAy's idea about storing the dried herbs and plants....I have been out searching for many of these plants in nature, some I have been successful others I have not...

I also found a few sources for the dried plants and herbs, stinging nettle is like 3 dollars a pound...

JK, about how much of the dried tissue do you use per 5 gallons, a round about answer is good....

JK you have seemed to have inspired many to think outside the bottle, myself included. Cheers brudda, waiting for the day I can burn one wit ya...........



By the way heres another intersting article I came across the udder day....

Through the ages herbs have been used in cooking for their flavor, in medicine for their healing properties and for their fragrance and cosmetic properties. However little has been written about their value to the organic grower.
Specific herbs may have one or many uses to the organic gardener. They can act as insect repellants, compost activators, DIY organic liquid fertilizers and good companion plants which strengthen those grown near them. They can also impart valuable nutrients into compost and enrich soil.
The chart here lists the 16 nutrients which plants need for healthy growth and shows where these nutrients are obtained - from the air, water, or soil. It is the soil that herbs play their greatest role, giving up their valuable source of nutrients either as decayed matter (compost) or as liquid fertilizer.
NUTRIENTS SOURCES
Carbon and oxygen AIR
Hydrogen and oxygen WATER
Major Nutrients
1. Nitrogen-fixing bacteria which live in nodules found in the roots of legumes, combine the N in nitrogen: the air with other elements in the soil to make it available to plants.
2. Decayed plant or animal matter.
Phosphorus
Potassium
Secondry Nutrients SOIL
Calcium
Magnesium Trace Elements
Sulphur Iron
Copper
Zinc
Boron
Chlorine
Manganese
Molybdenum
Most of these minerals and nitrogen can be supplied in part by various herbs which are allowed to decompose in compost and are returned to the soil.
The following herbs provide the minerals and other nutrients required by plants for healthy growth:
NUTRIENTS HERBS
Nitrogen - Comfrey, clover, legumes
Phosphorus - Alfalfa, valerian (this does not provide phosphorus, but stimulates phosphorus activity in the soil around it).
Potassium - Tansy, couch grass, coltsfoot, comfrey, sunflowers, thistles, alfalfa, borage, celery.
Calcium - Chamomile, comfrey, borage, lupins, horsetail, plantain.
Magnesium - Horsetail, alfalfa.
Sulphur - Plantain, broom, coltsfoot, garlic.
Iron - Dandelion, horsetail, alfalfa, nettle, sorrel.
Copper - Yarrow, nettle, garlic.
Chlorine - Horsetail, couch grass, dandelion.
Boron - Spurges (Euphorbia peplus, E. heliascopia, E.lathyrus, E.amygdaloides).
Manganese - Garlic.
Zinc & Molybdenum - Have not found any herbs containing these two minerals.
Deficiencies of these minerals are more likely to be found in soils which are very acid or very alkaline. If plants grown in very alkaline soil appear yellowish in spite of every attention, the mineral most likely to be deficient is iron. Iron is necessary for the formation of chlorophyl, the green coloring matter in the leaves, and a high level of alkalinity in the soil makes much of the iron inavailable to the plants. Try a liquid manure spray made with herbs rich in iron to correct this deficiency, or, if you prefer, use iron chelates.
The most common deficiency in a very acid soil is magnesium, also necessary in the formation of chlorophyll. Spray the soil with a solution made of horsetail or alfalfa to correct the deficiency and put plenty of these plants in the compost box to prevent any further deficiency. See the following recipes.
Nutrients stored up in plants may all be used to advantage in the form of a liquid fertilizer, which is srayed around the roots of plants, or used as a 'foliar-feed' which is sprayed on the leaves.
There are a number of herbs which are of great benefit to anyone who grows their plants organically and, in particular, to anyone who makes their own compost.
Using these herbs in the compost box does one of two things. The herbs will impart their own valuable nutrients into the compost heap and so enrich it, or the addition of two herbs in particular, yarrow and nettle, will help activate the compost and so decompose it in up to half the 'normal' time allowed - about six weeks instead of the usual three months.
The following herbs impart valuable nutrients into the compost:
COMFREY - Nitrogen, calcium
TANSY - Potassium
THISTLES - Potassium
NETTLES - Iron, copper, calcium
EQUISETUM - Calcium, iron, magnesium
DANDELION - Iron, copper
LUPINS - Calcium (used to reclaim sandy soil - L.luteus)
SPURGES - Boron (see Euphorbia varieties in the previous list)
VETCH & LEGUMES - Nitrogen
BORAGE - Potassium, calcium
SUNFLOWERS - Potassium
YARROW - Copper
PLANTAIN - Calcium
MELON LEAVES - Calcium
VALUABLE HERBS FOR THE ORGANIC GARDENER
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)
1. Comfrey is rich in nitrogen, potassium and natural calcium and its chemical compostion is said to be almost the same as that of farmyard manure.
2. Comfrey decomposes very quickly and so is useful not only in the compost heap, but also as a green manure, chopped up and spread around the base of plants.
3. Comfrey has often been used to break up new, heavy soil, since its long roots grow deep down into the subsoil, making available valuable nutrients to the topsoil.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
1. Yarrow is particularly rich in copper and also contains useful amounts of nitrates and phosphates.
2. Yarrow is an excellent compost activator. Tests done in England show that only a very small amount of the plant is needed to 'send off' the compost. The most effective qunatity has proved to be one part yarrow to 10,000 parts compost, ie, two leaves of yarrow chopped finely and mixed through one cubic yard of compost.
3. It has been found that root excretions produced by the yarrow plant strengthen neighboring plants and help them to resist disease.
4. When yarrow is grown next to various culinary and fragrant herbs, it increases the yield of oils produced by these herbs and so intensifies their flavors and scents.
5. When yarrow is rubbed between the fingers and pressed onto a cut it will immediately stop the bleeding (in most cases).
Nettles (Urtica dioica)
1. Nettles are very rich in iron, copper and natural calcium. These nutrients, which the nettle removed from the soil, are replaced when the plant is composted and dug back into the soil.
2. Nettles, like yarrow, help neighboring plants to grow strong and resist disease.
3. Nettles also increase the volatile oil content of the plants grown next to them, especially peppermint.
4. Nettles also act as a compost activator. Their influence on soil can be seen around their own roots - it is always very rich in humus.
5. Nettles stimulate the activity of nitrogen-fixing bacteria in the soil. A very rich liquid fertilizer can be made from nettles ( see recipes).
Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis and Matricaria chamomilla)
1. Chamomile is one on the richest plants in natural calcium.
2. English chamomile, which likes to be trodden on and makes a good lawn, has long had the reputation of being the 'plant physician', keeping neighboring plants healthy and disease-free and is reputed to be able to heal sick plants.
3. A tea made from chamomile flowers prevents 'damping off' in seedlings. Steep a handful of flowers in a pint of cold water for several hours. Water over the seed bed.
4. Any tea left over can be poured over the compost bin since the lime in chamomile acts as a sweetener and helps to prevent the compost smelling.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinate)
Dandelion is very rich in iron and also contains amonts of copper, potassium, sulphur and manganese. Audrey Wynne Hatfield said of the dandelion "As a garden weed, the dandelion, like the nettle, absorbs about three times the amount of iron from the soil taken up by any other plant. It is a miser too, for copper, and for anything else worthwhile in the soil nutrients that it can lay its roots to." She went on to say that "the thieving dandelion is only acceptable to plants when it is composted, rotted down, disintegrated to make available its hoard of iron, copper, and other things they need. Or it can be made into a liquid fertilizer which can only remedy other plants' deficiencies."
The dandelion's biggest drawback as far as the gardener is concerned is that it is charged with ethelene gas, which hinders the growth of neighboring plants and causes them to produce premature, dwarfed fruit.
Horsetail (Equisetum arvense)
Horsetail is a rich source of silica and contains a number of useful minerals, including iron, magnesium and calcium. The stems of this plant are so hard that simply steeping it in boiling water until it cools is not sufficient to draw out its valuable nutrients. (See recipes.)
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare)
Tansy is very rich in potassium. Dorothy Hall says of it "Tansy is one of the most mineral rich of all herbs. It is a great plant for the organic gardener. Its value in the compost bin is enormous. Bulging with potassium and assorted resins, oils and acids, its leaves provide many elements otherwise lacking. Whenever you cut back the plant, and cut it back you can many times even in one season, strop the leaves from their fibrous stems, add half to the compost bin and mix it well in, and keep the other half to dry."
Dried tansy is used to repel ants, flies, fleas and other insects. Always be sure to bruise the leaves first to release the insect-repelling oils.
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis)
Valerian is important to the gardener because of its ability to stir up and increase phosphorus activity in the soil around it. It also attracts earthworms.
Elderberry (Sambucua nigra & S.canadensis)
It is said that if a compost heap is made under an elderberry shrub or tree, the excretions from the tree roots, together with the fallen leaves, will assist fermentation and will help to produce especially good compost.
DIY LIQUID FERTILIZER RECIPES
Horsetail Spray
Gather plants in the early morning before they are affected by the sun. Cover a handful of the fresh plants with a pint of water and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and allow to cool, keeping it covered while cooling.
Strain the liquid free of bits that might clog up the spray and dilute with four parts of water. If using as a foliar-feed, add a dessertspoon of biodegradable detergent and stir for 10 minutes. The soap helps the liquid to adhere to the foliage. This is not necessary if it is to be sprayed onto the soil. This mixture should be used as soon as it is made.
Nettle Spray
Steep a bunch of nettles in some cold water and in three weeks they will be completley digested and ready for use. This liquid is used (a) as a fertilizer, (b) as an insect repellant - it keeps black aphis on broadbean and plant lice under control - and (c) it can be sprayed onto plants to help make them more resistant to disease and harsh conditions such as drought.
Bio-dynamic Horsetail Spray (Preparation 508)
This is the recipe from Audrey Wynne Hatfield
This is infused from the stems that arise after the unbranched brownish shoots bearing the spores have disappeared in late May (in Europe). the succeeding branching shoots, like little pine trees, are the richest in the silica and may be used fresh or dried.
To make the spray, cover 1 1/2 ozs dried horsetail with four quarts cold water, and bring to the boil.
Simmer for 20 minutes only then, remove from the heat and cool, covered for 24 hours.
Next day, strain the liquid from bits and use it, if fresh plants are used, put two good hand fulls in a pan and cover with water.
Simmer for 20 minutes. Allow to cool and infuse, covered, for 24 hours. Strain and dilute with two parts water to one part liquid.
Dried horsetail can be obtained from health food stores and herbalists. This recipe is also a particularly effective fungicide for deterring black spot on roses and mildew on any plant. It also prevents mint rust and the rust which attacks the mallow family.
Recycled from Sage newsletter and was originally a talk given by Sonia Blauensteiner to Sage Herb Society members.
We would like to hear from gardeners who have used these herbs as fertilizers to respond with their own experiences or criticisms.
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
-smell, why not just compost it , or add dried leaf to soil before transplanting...

you can add the dried leaf as a soil amendment, nothing wrong with that. only it takes a bit longer to release. with these extracts, most of the nutrients are water soluble state. which is used much much faster.

safety, I'm not sure what's being brewed, and is there possibility of airborne disease like mold / fungus / yeast / bacteria ... ? I think gardening "should" be a no health risk hobby

theres always a chance. but if you can point me in the direction to identify pathogens or "baddies" i feel safe after using these brews for well over a year now consistently. i not only grow pot with it, i also grow my own food which i eat and i am healthy as can be.

Any thoughts on using turmeric roots in an FPE?

cant say for sure. what nutrients does tumeric have in it, plant chemicals? other than it tasting good in indian food i cant say i know much about it. and i prefer to use things i have a good deal of knowledge on. just to be safe.

JK, about how much of the dried tissue do you use per 5 gallons, a round about answer is good....

to be honest you can do whatever you want, obviously the less you add the less potent it will be, the more you add the more you will have to dilute in the end. strong nettle tea is known to be a natural herbicide, pretty much its so strong undiluted. it nute burns weeds to death. then leaves the soil rich in N ready for planting. so im told. i let weeds grow and use them to make fertilizers haha. also some plants i dont use as much as others, for example. with yarrow extract, i dont use near as much as nettles or comfrey, same with chamomile, i dont use as much. which plants are you wanting ratios for? let me know first ill let you know how much i add.

JK you have seemed to have inspired many to think outside the bottle, myself included. Cheers brudda, waiting for the day I can burn one wit ya...........

think outside the "bottle" haha i like it. to let you know your guys feedback helps me a lot as well. i love seeing others experiment and try new things, as well as help prove if methods are worth a damn or not. id love to burn one with ya, maybe next time im in socal.

since there is so much interest with these fertilizers. i might make a step by step pictorial for everyone. i just don't want anyone to think this is the above all cure, you still need a healthy soil above all.
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Jaykush

The reason that I asked about 'turmeric' specifically is the benefit to humans for health reasons. There's a ton of links about this product for mammals and a bit on adding it for poultry. Good stuff from a 'health perspective' so I was just curious.

The other reason that I asked is that since comfrey is a 'rhio' plant and turmeric is as well I was just wondering.

I also have access to 'curry leaves' at a local Asian market. That looked interesting if nothing else.

Too much time on my hand perhaps? LOL

CC
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
I believe curry leaves are the leaves of the methi plant. Not sure of any gardening uses.

I can say this from experience: if you make garlic oil to use as a spray, you need to have a sprayer that cleans easily. I did that last summer, and my sprayer still stinks like garlic.
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
clackamas i wouldn't doubt you can use it, to be honest anything organic or natural can be used for gardening in some way, shape or form imo. its just figuring out which way is best utilized is the tricky part. specially since it has health benefits, most of the plants listed and used above are not only good for your plants, but also good for you.

it would be nice to have a list of the nutrients, minerals and other things that are in turmeric or anything your considering using as an extract. that would be a start before i would even consider using it. and this is honestly the hardest part about growing like this and trying to find new plants to use.

too much time hehe. nothing like me, theres been times when i would go out for days collecting, photographing plants so i can identify them, find out there uses and whats inside them. now that i moved, i almost have to start over with all the new plants here. i always stick with nettles, yarrow and comfrey though. if anything, people should use those three. i for one have too much time on my hands. its great though :)

I can say this from experience: if you make garlic oil to use as a spray, you need to have a sprayer that cleans easily. I did that last summer, and my sprayer still stinks like garlic.

if you get the cheap ones, you can have enough to dedicate a sprayer for each extract. this place near me sells 1 liter spray bottles for 50 cents. they last about 6 months. and even have the dilution ratios on them ( 1:10, 1:20:,1:50 for example)
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
here are some pics for everyone that i just happened to take recently to show a friend.

first off we have a comfrey brew, water and plant matter was thrown in a cheapo blender and processed, added to the 1 gallon jug, and filled the rest of the way. it sat for 4-5 days? until when i shook it, there was not a ton of foam. and then i took this picture, right after i strained it into glass jars for storage.
picture.php


i have harvested some yarrow a few days ago to make some more fertilizers. here it is right after picking it, you want the stems, flowers and leaves. each part contains different percentages of nutrients/minerals, so you want diversity. collecting flowers alone would leave out whats in the stems and leaves. wait for the blooms to fade so you can enjoy them and also bring beneficial insects to your garden.
picture.php


here is the flowers and leaves before getting ground up, the stems are ground seperatly because they don't fit in the small mortar and pestle. after its ground up its sifted to get the big chunks out, and re ground up so its all a fine powder. make sure its good and dry before storing it, you dont want it to mold ( or do we? hmm )
picture.php
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
turmeric

turmeric

if you do work with turmeric, remember that it stains just about everything yellow.
 

sophisto

Member
JK said "since there is so much interest with these fertilizers. i might make a step by step pictorial for everyone. i just don't want anyone to think this is the above all cure, you still need a healthy soil above all".

Would love to see it brudda mayng...

More specifically about ratios,

Nettle/ water
Comfrey/ water
Yarrow/ water
Chamomile/ water
Horsetail/water

I have at the moment access to dried plant material via bulk herb stores on line...Generally about 2-10 a pound of dried plant matter or powder......

And also let me know when you come down I will twist up one of my finest....I may be up ther before you, I will let you know......Cheers and thanks once again.....R
 

montehierba

Member
Here is a little story.
A good buddy of mine local boy in costa rica where am at now, says he was victim of red leaf cutting ants and distroyed his entire four foot tall pure mango rosa field, about fifty of them the kid says it has a sad day for him, no shit.i'd of been sad too.
well he always askes shit around about everything to everyone he knows and among one of those things he learned that need trees work great, well he tried again he said, so started with bringing NEEM leafs to the field two week prior to the starting date and the ants took every bit of leaf available to them,well it must if given those bastards a bad night cuz now they know about NEEM now he says he sees them go all the way around his field and not look back.
so add NEEM to your list buddy.
 
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